February 23, 2015

SPANISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

ISLA PALOMINO:  This is a nice place to visit.  There are short hikes and a nice beach.  Beware, on week-ends, it gets very busy.  Locals tie up their power boats, play the loudest music ever, and every boat has different music.  I'm sure nobody was talking to each other but lots of drinking was evident. 


PUERTO RICAN NAVY

VIEW FROM TOP OF ISLA PALOMINO


ENSENADA SUN BAY, VIEQUES:  Rolly anchorage, difficulty setting anchor and rainy.  We didn't stay long at all.

PUERTO MOSQUITO BIOBAY:  The Bioluminescent Bay, or Mosquito Bay, is considered the best example of a bioluminescent by in the United States and is listed as a national natural landmark, one of five in Puerto Rico.  The luminescence in the bay is caused by a micro-organism which glows whenever the water is disturbed, leaving a trail of neon blue. 

We've often seen bioluminescence while under way at night but never, ever this much of it.  In the Bay, you are not allowed to use motors but you can paddle your dinghy.  With every paddle, there was a trace of bioluminescence and you can see it at the stern of the dinghy.  We put our hands in the water and you can see the glitter on our hands.  We were in awe.  Also, when fish would swim away from our boat, they left a long trace of bioluminescence.  This place should be on everyone's bucket list.

The only downside, is that the anchorage was extremely rolly and very uncomfortable.  Tim rigged an anchor bridle to turn our bow into the swell.  This way we were able to get some sleep.  You could also try and do a tour of the Bay however, they were all booked when we called.




BIOLUMINESENCE AT MOSQUITO BAY




















                                    Click here for more pictures of the bioluminescence;
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PUERTO FERRO BAY, VIEQUES:  We did a very nice, long hike to Caracas beach along with repairing the dinghy floor.  Nice quiet area, I would recommend it.

Here's some history:  In 1941, while Europe was in the midst of WWII, the United States Navy purchased about two thirds of Vieques as an extension to the Roosevelt Roads Naval Station nearby on Puerto Rican mainland.  Much of the land was bought from the owners of large farms and sugar cane plantations, and the purchase triggered the final demise of the sugar industry.  Many agricultural workers, who had no title to the land they occupied, were evicted.  The US Navy used this area for military exercises, and as a firing range and testing ground for bombs, missiles, and other weapons.  Even after WWII, the Navy kept testing.  Protests come to a head in 1999 when a civilian employee was killed by a jet bomb.  Finally, in May 2003, the Navy withdrew from Vieques, and much of the island was designated a National Wildlife Refuge.

SAILORS CANNOT ANCHOR IN CERTAIN AREAS BECAUSE OF UNEXPLODED BOMBS

ENSENADA HONDA, CULEBRA:  From Ferro Bay, we motored to the East end of Vieques then on a beam reach to Culebra.  What a wonderful little town.  We had a great time with sailing friends on 'Slow Dancing', 'Navigator' and Phyllis.  One day, we took our bikes out and strapped our boogie boards and biked to the beach.  When the waves are good,  boogie boarding is one of my favorite things to do as I hate to just sit on a beach.



GOING BOOGIE BOARDING



STATUE MADE OF WOOD
While putting our bikes and boards back on our dinghy, someone at the Sailor's bar/restaurant was waving at us frantically.  We couldn't see who it was but decided to go and investigate.  It was Steve on s/v 'SlowFlight'.  We hadn't seen him since Georgetown, Bahamas.  What a great reunion :)  We all had dinner together along with his friends Sara & Stefan on 'Free Range' and Mark on 'Osprey' .  The next day we snorkeled at Melones reef (well worth it).

While in Puerto Rico, do not miss a Lecheron which is basically a pig roast.  Vendors roast their pigs along the side of the roads and wow, it is delicious !  I was going to post a picture of the cooked, dead pig but decided against it.

BAHIA TORTUGA, CULEBRITA:  Absolutely by far, one of my favorite uninhabited islands and beaches.  There is an easy hike to the lighthouse where the views are spectacular.  There are wild goats and deer on this island. 

We walked along the shore to the 'Jacuzzi' which is a cut in the mountain with lots of waves crash into an area causing bubbles.  Sometimes, the waves were pretty strong and there are lots of rock so we had to be careful.   We hiked across from the 'Jacuzzi' up the side of the mountain for more beautiful views and to see some type of cactus that has a red top with miniscule pink flowers.



VIEW FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE


THE JACUZZI ON THE RIGHT


TIM GETTING PUSHED BY THE WAVES IN THE JACUZZI


THE WATER COMES FROM THE OCEAN INTO THE JACUZZI


ON THE HILL ACROSS FROM THE JACUZZI





Alpenglow anchored in Culebrita.  To the right is the cut where the Jacuzzi is


February 15, 2015

PUERTO RICO

The trade winds are generally from the East in this region but on January 28th, the winds were predicted to come from the Northeast which made it for a nice sail from the Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico across the infamous Mona Passage.  The Mona Passage is a strait that separates the islands of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico.  The Mona Passage connects the Atlantic Ocean  to the Caribbean Sea, and is an important shipping route between the Atlantic and the Panama Canal.   
The 80 mi (130 km) stretch of sea between the two islands is one of the most difficult passages in the Caribbean. It is fraught with variable tidal currents created by the large islands on either side of it, and by sand banks that extend out for many miles from both coasts.

While crossing Samaná bay, we saw about 25 to 30 Humpback whales. It was quite amazing to watch them spout and lift their tails out of the sea to dive down. We were very alert just in case one of them or a pod of them would pass near us.

S/V PINNACLE IN SAMANA BAY
BOQUERON:  We arrived in Boquerón after a 24 hour passage. We were with our buddy boat 'Pinnacle'. They don't have AIS so it was nice for them to know that we would hail them in case some other boat would come near.

BOB BBQ'ING ON THE BEACH
We have very good memories with Gigi and Bob of s/v 'Pinnacle'. They invited us for a beach BBQ. As soon as we were all set up, it just rained and rained and rained. We took shelter in a life guard cabin and just laughed. It finally ended and we had a feast. There were so many mosquitoes, we had to leave but this was a good thing. We walked to town and there was music in the street.


SUSAN & GIGI.  WE HAD SO MUCH FUN TOGETHER

We danced the salsa and meringue and sang to karaoke music until very late. We were awful singers but we didn't care.   I think we were the only visitors there. It was packed with locals & they loved to dance with us.




CLAMS FOR SALE

$2.00 EMPANADAS
GILLIGAN'S ISLAND:  This uninhabited island is quite small with very shallow waters.  On week-ends, the locals sit in the shallow pools with drinks and have laughs with their family and friends.  It can be quite busy.  We went during the week and had the place to ourselves...well almost.
OLD SAN JUAN:  We left our boat at the Ponce Yacht Club and rented a car to drive to Old San Juan city.  My Aunt and Uncle from New Brunswick, Canada were arriving on a cruise ship in San Juan so we were able to visit with them.
CENTER OF OLD SAN JUAN FROM OUR HOTEL ROOM
THE WALLS AT SAN JUAN


SUSAN BUYING CIGARS FOR A FRIEND













SUSAN ATTENDED BACARDI RUM SCHOOL, THE ART OF MAKING RUM DRINKS.
TIM DID A RUM TASTING


BACARDI DISTILLERY:  HUGE BARRELS CONTAINING MOLASSES TO MAKE THE RUM






Mofongo is a fried plantain-based dish. It is typically made with fried  green plantains mashed  together in a pilón (wooden mortar and pestle) with broth, garlic, olive oil, and Chicharron (pork cracklings) or bits of bacon. It can be filled with vegetables, chicken, crab, shrimp, or beef and is often served with fried meat and chicken broth soup. Mofongo relleno is mofongo served with braised meat or seafood poured over it.
PONCE:  Ponce is Puerto Rico's most populated city outside the San Juan metropolitan area, is named for Juan Ponce de León y Loayza, the great-grandson of Spanish conquistador Juan Ponce de León.  The city serves as the governmental seat of the autonomous municipality as well as the regional hub for various Government of Puerto Rico entities, such as the Judiciary of Puerto Rico. It is also the regional center for various other commonwealth and federal government agencies.
The municipality of Ponce is the second largest in Puerto Rico by land area, and it was the first in Puerto Rico to obtain its autonomy, becoming the Autonomous Municipality of Ponce in 1992.


Parque de Bombas ("Park of Pumps") is a historic firehouse building in Ponce, Puerto Rico. It is one of Puerto Rico's most notable buildings, with some considering it "by far the most easily recognized landmark in the Island." It is located at the Plaza Las Delicias town square, directly behind the Ponce Cathedral. The building housed the city's main fire station for many years, and it is now a museum. Its name comes from the mobile hand-pumped fire fighting units the building once housed. It has been heralded both for its historical and architectural roles in Puerto Rican society. It was Puerto Rico's first ever fire station. It was listed in the National Register of Historic Places on July 12, 1984.



At a market in Ponce, a vendor gave me a
soursop to taste.  It's really yummy !  You
can even make soursop ice cream.

I like to fry the soursop to make soursop chips.

Parque de la Ceiba (Ceiba Tree Park) is a passive park in barrio San Antón, Ponce, Puerto Rico. Its centerpiece is the historic Ceiba tree, a tree associated with the founding of the city. Now surrounded by the park with the same name, the emblematic 500-year old Ceiba tree stands on the edge of the Ponce Historic Zone. The park opened in 1984.


THE TOWN OF PONCE

CAJA DES MUERTOS ISLAND:  Means Coffin Island.  It is an uninhabited island off the southern coast of Puerto Rico, in the municipality of Ponce. The island is protected by the Reserva Natural Caja de Muertos natural reserve, because of its native turtle traffic.

PICTURE TAKEN FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE

TALL CACTUS ON OUR HIKE TO THE LIGHTHOUSE

LIGHTHOUSE AT 'COFFIN ISLAND'

BAHIA JOBOS:  We anchored here behind the mangroves.  A fun thing to do here is to dinghy around to see all the manatees.

FAJARDO:  We stayed at the Sunbay marina since we wanted to rent a car to visit the El Yunque rain forest. 

At the marina we met some very interesting people, or shall I say, a very interesting boat named CAT'S MEOW.  This catamaran was designed by Derek Kelsall and built by Mananan Yachts in 1988 on the Isle of Man.  Described as “the quintessence of luxury and performance”.  She is 78' long and 35' wide.  Don & Lavonne are the owners now.

The previous owner, lived the good life for years was sentenced for running a marijuana smuggling operation in which he sank tons of pot to the ocean floor and later brought it to the surface using smaller boats, global-positioning units and scuba gear.

It was the biggest marijuana importation scheme in coastal South Carolina since the late 1970s, when "Operation Jackpot" caught people smuggling drugs to barrier islands throughout the state, according to Beaufort County Sheriff P.J. Tanner.  Read more here :  http://www.beaufortgazette.com/local/story/198473.html

Don went to an auction, not expecting to purchase this boat but he did.  We had the pleasure of visiting with Don and Lavonne on their very impressive, large Cat.

EL YUNQUE RAIN FORESTThis Rain Forest is a cool, mountainous, sub tropical rainforest. The Eastern side of the Luquillo Mountains, which has the El Yunque rainforest at the top elevations, gets most of the rain. This tropical 'Rain forest' occupies very little area in Puerto Rico, only a single, crescent shaped, band on the windward side of the El Yunque mountains. It lies wholly within the El Yunque National Forest Reserve.


THE ENDANGERED PUERTO RICAN PARROT 










WE WERE ABLE TO SWIM AT TWO WATERFALL HOLES