September 20, 2016

ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA


To get to Antigua from our marina consists of a 6 hour bus ride to Guatemala city, then another one and half hour bus ride to Antigua.  Both buses are 1st class and air conditioned, really, not a bad ride at all.  I really enjoy looking at the country side along the way.

Antigua, pronounced ‘an’tiyawa is a city in central Guatemala famous for its well preserved Spanish Baroque influenced architecture as well as several ruins of colonial churches.  To give you an idea of how big the city is now, there are approximately 35,000 inhabitants.  The city of Antigua sustained several earthquakes and volcano eruptions, some quite devastating.    Today, the central park (Parque Central) is in the heart of the city.  It is a popular gathering spot especially on week-ends.  Off to the side is the “Cathedral of Saint James San Jose Parrish”.  The first building was built in 1545 with rubble brought from the destroyed settlement in the valley of Almolonga.  Its construction was hampered by frequent earthquakes.  A 2nd sanctuary would be inaugurated in 1680.
  

Cathedral of Saint James San Jose Parrish


View from the Government building (not open on week-ends)

Central Park with the AGUA volcano in the background

The central park underwent a beautifying face lift and government officials celebrated by making speeches and thanking the architects along with live music.



Around the Central Park








Historic San Francisco Church  

The “Arco de Santa Catalina” is among the many notable architectural landmarks in Antigua.  The arch dates back from the early 17th century whose function was of passage for the nuns requiring not to be seen while crossing the street. 

Arco de Santa Catalina


I was lucky to have been invited to a wedding at the beautiful Merced Church near the arch of Santa Catalia.

Beautiful bride arriving in a carriage 


There were so many roses the smell was overwhelming

Antigua is quite touristy and has approximately 300 restaurants and has many hostels, hotels and guide services.  To walk the city, I’d advise to bring good walking shoes as all the streets are made of cobble stones.  However I did see a family of 5 riding a motorcycle.  There is so much to see in Antigua, you’ll never be bored (get a map from the tourist office).

Antigua is known for its very elaborate religious celebrations during Lent named “Cuaresma”, leading up to Holy week and Easter.  Elaborate and beautiful artistic carpets predominantly made of dyed sawdust, flowers, pine needs and fruit and vegetables adorn the processions path.  There is a large parade like procession during this time with religious floats.

Religious Float

Religious Float


Three large volcanos can be seen from just about anywhere around the city.  They are Volcan de Agua “Volcano of water”, Acetenango which erupted last in 1972 and Volcan de Fuego “Volcano of fire”.  Fuego is famous for being almost constantly active at a low level.  You can see steam and gas from its top daily and a larger eruption occurred in September 2012.



Volcano Fuego smoking ! (View from our hostel)
Volcano Fuego.  Photo:  Courtesy of s/v Angel Eyes



Tim and I walked many miles around the city exploring many of the archaeological sites.  There are also several Jade museums since Jade is mined in Guatemala.  In ancient Mayan times, Jade was not only used as ornaments but also used to fill in tooth cavities.  We enjoyed dining in several wonderful restaurants of every type.  Our favorite was a curry dish at the Tokoban restaurant along with imported German beers.  Tokoban actually means “Unnamed Bar” in Indonesia since the owner’s mother is Indonesian.  The Dutch owner calls himself Eduardo because nobody can remember his Dutch name. 

Tim climbed the Acatenango volcano which was a 5,000 feet elevation gain taking most of the day.  The top is at 13,045 feet and it was freezing up there.  A hat and gloves would have helped.  The next day, both of us climbed the Pacaya Volcano at 8,373 feet.  Both had amazing views from the top.





Brittle and sharp lava rock

I decided to warm up our sandwiches for lunch 



There are several stores selling textiles galore !  I bought a few from Cristobal from the village of Santa Catarina Polopo village around Lake Atitlan.


Cristobal and Susan

 The Mayan people are some of the shortest people in the world.  It’s really strange for me to look down at people as I’ve mostly had to look up.  I met several women and men who are 4.5 feet and under !  There are 22 Mayan languages.   When a Mayan woman marries a man from another village, she is obliged to learn his language but not the man.  Their children have the opportunity to learn both Mayan languages.  They differ drastically between each language. 

The Saturday market in Antigua is a very large one with so much food, its mind bottling.  There are so many people, it’s hard to walk between the isles.




Delicious lechees








Inside the Hotel Casa Santo Domingo (3ra Calle Oriente #28  )is an upscale hotel & spa along with several museums that is built amid the ruins of the 16th Century iglesia. 


Archaeological Museum

Thunbergia mysorensis, also called Mysore trumpetvine or Indian clock vine, is a species of flowering plant in the family Acanthaceae

We took a chicken bus from Antigua to the village of San Antonio.  This little village has a craft market where you can see several Mayan women weave their exquisite work.  Unfortunately, a few days before we arrived, sadly the building burned and so did all their inventory.  Several stores beside the market were still operating. 
Chicken bus terminal in Antigua
The girls in San Antonia tried teaching me making tortillas.  It's not as easy as it looks.
This man's work was beautiful.  Too bad they are hiding under ground.









 
Some kind of Festival in Antigua




Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross)



This and that....








What are these ?









INFORMATION FOR CRUISERS:

Bus:  To get to Antigua from Fronteras (Rio Dulce), we took  the Litegua bus at 8am to Guatemala city bus terminal (6 hours).  From there, they will put you on another bus at 2pm to the Calle 15, Zona 1 bus terminal (about a 15 minute drive).  At this bus terminal, there is a cafeteria with really good Guatemalan coffee.  We waited there about 20 minutes before the bus left for Antigua, taking about 1.5 hours.  The bus lets you off at the Central Park.  From there you can walk or take a cab to your hotel.

In Antigua, go to the tourist office and get a map of the city which helps to find all the sites. 

Best curry dish:  TOKOBAN restaurant with imported German beer.  Inexpensive with large portions however beer prices are more than local beer of course.

Best French Crepe restaurant:  LUNA DE MIEL.  There are often line ups on week-ends.  We went for lunch on the terrace upstairs.

Shuttles to airport:  The earliest shuttle from Antigua to Guatemala international airport if at 4am.  I read that it takes 1 hour however the girl at the tourist desk sait it takes 1.5 hours.  Because my flight was too early, I needed to take a private taxi ($34us).  It took us 45 minutes to get to the airport with no traffic as we left at 3:15am.

Tour agencies:  There are plenty of tour agencies everywhere in Antigua and they don’t charge the same prices so shop around.  They go to places such as Tikal, Semuc Champey, Lake Atlitlan, Chichicastenango, Copan, ect ect…They can also book you on shuttles to the airport and reserve taxis for you.


Certified fitness trainer/boxer:  Eric Grahm.  www.facebook.com/antiguafitness.  Tel (502) 576803653.  Geetravel808@gmail.com

September 17, 2016

TIKAL & YAXHA RUINS OF GUATEMALA

Tikal & Yaxha are ruins in ancient Mayan cities in the tropical rainforests of northern Guatemala.  Tikal is one of the largest archaeological sites of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization. It became the most powerful kingdom of the ancient Maya.  Tikal covers an area greater than 16 square kilometers (6.2 sq miles) and has approximately 3,000 structures. Tikal lies in the Tikal National Park which covers 223 square miles. 

It is estimated that the population of Tikal grew to 425,000.  Major construction was already taking place in the Late Preclassic period, around 400-300 BC and by the 9th century, the city fell into silence. 

There are several trees in Tikal however the gigantic Ceiba Pentandra was the sacred tree of the Maya.  We often saw and heard howler monkeys, spider monkeys, harpy eagles, falcons, ocellated turkeys, guans, toucans, green parrots and leafcutter ants and we also saw a tarantula!  Jaguars and cougars also roam in the park. 

The Mayans were fascinated with time and obsessed with astronomy.  Many temples were built so they can climb to the top to be closer to the stars.  They were very religious and recognized an incredible array of gods.

Ritual bloodletting was a fundamental part of the Maya religious life.  It took many forms such as cursory self inflicted blood offerings to elaborate ceremonies involving the mass sacrifice of captive kings and enemy warriors.  A common bloodletting ritual may have consisted of cutting earlobes, cheeks or thighs and collecting the blood to burn, or sprinkling it directly on a shrine or idol.  Undertaken for numerous reasons -  to bless a journey, the planting of crops or the passing of a family member.  A male rite was to draw blood by pricking his penis with either a stingray spine, obsidian lancet or flint knife !

The Maya also practiced bloodletting in the form of captive sacrifice, a highly ceremonial affair in which prolonged death and torture were featured.  Prisoners faced death by decapitation or by having their hearts removed while awake !

In divination rituals, used to foretell the pattern of future events or account for the cause of past events, the elite used various drugs to achieve altered states of consciousness.  They drank alcohol made from fermented maize or a combination of honey and the bark of jungle trees.  Wild tobacco, which is considerably stronger than the modern version was also smoked.  They Maya also ate hallucinogenic mushrooms such as the ‘underworld mushroom’ and the ‘lost judgments mushroom’ as they called it.

 
IF YOU ALWAYS WANTED GOLD TEETH, LOOK FOR THIS SIGN IN SANTA ELENA

THE ENTRANCE TO THE CAUSEWAY BETWEEN SANTA ELENA AND FLORES

IN THE TOWN OF FLORES NEAR TIKAL

 
BURIAL GROUNDS


TIKAL AT SUNRISE

CALLED A STELLA

GRAND PLAZA, TIKAL

SOME TEMPLES ARE QUITE STEEP

TIM AT THE GRAND PLAZA, TIKAL

THE TOP OF A TEMPLE


SUNRISE FROM THE TOP OF TEMPLE IV IN TIKAL


YAXHA RUIN

YAXHA

WE CLIMBED ALL THE TEMPLES IN TIKAL AND YAXHA





ANTS MADE THIS TRAIL

HOWLER MONKEY

HOWLER MONKEY


IT'S VERY RARE TO SEE SPIDER MONKEYS ON THE ROAD

JUST A TOAD AT 4 AM


WE FOUND A TARANTULA !


WHEN THIS BUTTERFLY OPENS HIS WINGS, HE DISPLAYS A DEEP BLUE COLOR

MY PRIZED PICTURE OF A COLLARED ARACARI TUCAN IN TIKAL

 
CERAMIC BOWL IN THE TIKAL MUSEUM

NOTICE THE HEAD HE IS HOLDING IN HIS HANDS

SEPTEMBER 15th IS GUATEMALA'S INDEPENDENCE DAY, THEY CELEBRATE FOR 4 - 5 DAYS !


PARADES GALORE CELEBRATING INDEPENDENCE DAY



INFORMATION FOR CRUISERS:
BUS from Rio Dulce to Santa Elena:  One option is to flag down the 1st class Fuente Del Norte bus in Fronteras at the bridge (about 100Q).  This bus comes from Guatemala and already has passengers on board.  Because you are waving them down, you do not have a reserved seat and you must pay the driver or his helper.  Keep in mind, if the bus is full, they’ll still let you on but you’ll have to stand the whole way (3+ hours).  They will stop in Santa Elena’s bus terminal,  then you can either walk to take a tuc tuc to Flores if that’s where you are staying.

There are other options however in my experience the bus schedules online were never correct.  It’s best to buy a ticket directly from the bus terminal if you can.

FROM Flores to Tikal:  Flores is a very touristy town catering to tourists going to Tikal.  You can ask your hotel concierge for a ride or go to a tourist office or simply take the collective bus from the bus terminal in Santa Elena.  Do NOT accept anyone off the street offering you a ride, they are called coyotes and will rip you off (we met a couple who paid 400Q for a ride to Tikal, normally, it’s around 100Q).

TIKAL Park
-          The park entrance fee is 150Q pp.  If you arrive after 3:00pm your ticket will be good for the next day.
-          If you want to see the sunrise from the top of Temple IV, you must have a guide for 100Q and pay I believe 100Q for the entrance to the park.  This entrance fee is only good until 8am.  If you leave the park after sunrise and want to return later, you’ll have to pay another entrance fee of 150Q, so just stay in the park for the day.  We know of some people who hid in the park before dark then pitched their tent on a temple.  If you bump into a security guy, our friends offered him 200Q each and the security guy let them stay.  I’m not saying to do this, but other people have blogged about this.
-          There is no food to buy in the park but you can buy drinks and there are washrooms (I always bring TP just in case).
-          Bring bug spray !!!

YAXHA ruins:
-          Beware that the last 11 kilometers is a slow bumpy ride as the road is not paved.  It takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to drive there from Flores.  Bring bug spray.

Restaurant:  I truly enjoyed the hippy feeling of “COOL BEANS” in Flores.  They serve large plates and refill your coffee for free.  The food is very good as they also bake their own bread and make homemade jam.