February 2, 2017

ROATAN - PART II "The Island"

There are several anchorages to choose from in Roatan such as Jonesville Bight, also known as Hog Pen Bight, Port Royal near Camp Bay, West End and French Harbor to name a few, all worth visiting.

West End is a cute, small village that is laid back and much less touristy than it's neighbor West Bay. It offers over 20 scuba dive shops, seaside bars and many different delicious restaurants, a few gift shops, a grocery store and fruit and vegetable stands.

Daily, we swam and snorkeled right from our boat and on other days, we wondered a bit further, tying  our dinghy to a dive buoy.  We were never dissapointed.  Back in Guatemala, we met a Swiss cruiser named Patric.  He works at "Reef Divers" as a Dive Master in West End.  Patric took Tim and I diving and showed us creatures we've never seen before.  We continued to dive with Reef Divers and they never dissapointed us as their service is top notch.   The island is surrounded by numerous wonderful dive sites.


SUSAN AND SHANNON DIVING WITH REEF GLIDERS AT WEST END

We did a short sail from West End to French Harbor on the East side of the island.  The anchorage is beautiful with views of Little and Big French Cays, the reef, beautiful water and again, great snorkeling & wreck dives right from your boat or beyond the close reef.



VIEW OF FRENCH HARBOR FROM FANTASY ISLAND


SHRIMP BOAT NEAR THE ANCHORAGE AT FRENCH HARBOR


HOUSE IN THE VILLAGE NEAR THE ANCHORAGE AT FRENCH HARBOR

We had a wonderful time taking advantage of the resort, their beautiful pool and wonderful beaches.  We had a pot luck Christmas with new and old cruiser friends.  On New Year's Eve we rafted up our dinghys in the bay by the resort at 11pm to watch their fireworks show and wow, it was amazing !

GERALD ET PATRICIA DE MARIA, GASPE
S/V SECOND SUMMIT



LILLY ON S/V SECOND SUMMIT


KAREN & TRAY FROM WESTCLIFF, COLORADO


NEW YEAR'S EVE RAFT UP





















PAT, RUDY & SANDY ENJOYING CHRISTMAS 






There is an iguana farm in French Harbor.   We saved up our left over vegetables and fruit and fed the iguanas.




Tim went wake boarding with Scott who own's our sister ship "Milika".  Tim also went kayaking quite often.  As my shoulder is still not healed from my surgery, kayaking is still hard on me.   So, I hopped into the kayak in front of Tim and there you go, our one man kayak is now a double kayak, well sort of....It just gives Tim and harder work out.

Within walking distance of Frenchie's is Johnny's farm.  It's a rescue zoo with a few animals.  It's a guided tour for $10us and they let you hold and play with most of the animals.





FEMALE 3 TOED SLOTH




MALE SLOTHS HAVE A STRIPE ON THEIR BACKS







                  YOU JUST NEVER KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT AT FRENCHI'S

On Sunday afternoons, people of the Garifuna village in Punta Gorda play drums, sing old African songs and dance the Punta.  We had a great time listening to the music and walking around the village with our friends Linda, George and Dana.

 
HAPPY IN PUNTA GORDA


















In Punta Gorda, the local Garifuna dish is Machuca, a delicacy soup made with fish, coconut milk, and any seafood they have.  We each at a lobster tail, a fish head, fish and conch.  It was delicious and filling.

 
MACHUCA DISH

Fantasy Island Marina has  3 resident wild monkeys, Chiqui, Luci, Chiqui's mother and Ethal.  Most mornings, Chiqui comes on board to say good morning to us and I share my breakfast with him.  He's very gentil and only weights about 5 pounds.  He loves to groom my hair and cuddles Tim.   He can be quite mischievous at times as he'll steal things from your cockpit and once he actually pee'd on me, what did I do wrong ?????





LOOKING OUT


LUCIE, CHIQUI'S MOM NEAR OUR BOAT


TIM'S BEST FRIEND


SUSAN SHARING HER BREAKFAST WITH CHIQUI

Three years ago I went to my high school reunion and reunited with an old school mate, Linda.  She owns a house in Calabash bay and happened to be there while I was in Roatan.  We visited the sloths with her and her daughter Shannon, went snorkeling & scuba diving, visited her beautiful home and walked along the shore.  We had an awesome lunch at Crow's Nest and walked thru their amazing gardens.  Thanks Linda & Shannon for driving me around visiting Roatan, I had a great time with you girls.



SUSAN & LINDA AT CROW'S NEST RESTAURANT ENJOYING THE VIEW


VIEW FROM CROW'S NEST RESTAURANT



HOMES IN CALABASH BAY


HIKING PATH ON CALABASH BAY BY LINDA'S HOUSE


ACHIOTE TREE SEEDS



ACHIOTE TREE PODS

Little French Cay is a short kayak from the marina and anchorage.  It's a tiny cay used to drop off people from the cruise ships.  It is very quiet on those days no ship cruisers are there.  They have numerous caged rescue animals.  We were very lucky to meet the vetenarian, a 24 year old local who followed us everywhere we went and answered all our questions.

 
SCOTT & TIM  HANGING OUT



YOU CAN GO HORSE BACK RIDING AT LITTLE FRENCH CAY


LITTLE FRENCH CAY







TIM JUMPING OFF THE PLATFORM AT LITTLE FRENCH CAY


Our cruiser friends Linda and George invited me to tag along with them to do a land tour with their visiting friend from Nova Scotia, Laurie.  

 
GEORGE, SUSAN, LINDA AND LAURIE


LIGHTHOUSE NEAR WEST BAY

VIEW FROM LIGHTHOUSE

WEST BAY BEACH


It's easy to get around Roatan by means of their local buses which we used often to go shopping, daily hospital visits (see Roatan Part I blog) and visiting around.  So, off we went with Dana to Jonesville Bay to have lunch at BJ's restaurant which feature live music by ex pats who live in the area.  We also got Alfredo to give us a tour of the surrounding bays.  Thanks to Dana for the pictures !




TOILET AT BJ'S.  OPEN TO THE SEAS !!!

LIVE MUSIC AT BJ'S



ALFREDO, OUR BOAT DRIVER.  CHECK OUT HIS LOUNGE CHAIR

FAMOUS "HOLE IN THE WALL" RESTAURANT

A LONE FLY FISHERMAN IN JONESVILLE BIGHT


A very special thank you to the Fantasy Marina Managers, Debbie and Steve who constantly helped us with any needs that we had.  It was a blast hanging out with them and swapping stories over glasses of wine.  I wish you both lots of great adventures as you set sail soon.  Love to both of you.





                                 CRUISER'S INFORMATION:

Please note that by the time you get to Roatan, the below information may be out of date.  This was written at the end of January, 2017.

Checking in/out:
Utila: You can check in and out from Utila, see my blog named UTILA, ROATAN.
Roatan, Coxen Hole:  cp.roatan@marinamercante.gob.hn   Port Captain phone:  504-2445-1262.  There is a free wifi just outside his office in the park.
Ranguana:  You can check in/out here, sorry I have no additional information.

                            French Harbor, Fantasy Island Marina:

General: Marina slip holders only (can't use if you are anchored), may use the resort facilities which include a salt water pool, nice beaches, blue water, snorkeling and diving right from the shore.  Slip holders get a 20% discount at their restaurant ($30 buffet lunch, there's also a cheaper bar menu).  We personally had the Caesar chicken salad for $10us and it was aweful, however other's had the club sandwich and they loved it.  To get to the main road, it's a 10-15 minute walk from the Fantasy Island resort & marina.

Tiki Palapa:   This is where all the marina socializing takes place.  Some social activities include BBQ night, Movie night, $2 beers, $4 wine, 2 for 1 on Lady's night.  Can you the BBQ anytime, just ask the marina managers.  Boats anchored are allowed to use the Tiki Palapa but must pay $2 to park their dinghy.  Anchored boats may also drop off their trash.

Grocery store:  There's a free bus that leaves the Tiki Palapa weekly to go to Eldon's grocery store weekly (tip your driver please).  If you buy 6 bottles of wine you get a 10% discount (you can mix and match).

Fruit/Vegetables:  Weekly, there is a truck that goes to the Tiki Palapa.  All fruits and vegetables arrive from the mainland on Wednesdays.

WIFI:  Free WIFI at the resort lobby.

Laundry:  There are no laundry facilities at the Fantasy Island Marina.  You must go to Mama's at the Mega Mall.

Bathroom/showers:  There are 2 bathrooms with showers (not always hot water), 1 at the Tiki Palapa and the other is room #705 (if dirty, call marina managers on VHF 71 to call the resort to have it cleaned).

Animals:  There are 3 resident monkeys (don't leave anything out in your cockpit as they steal).  Your animals must be on a leash.

Water:  Share water hoses on some docks, water is NOT potable.  The water is good however the pipes are very rusty with lots of iron (if you mix this water with bleach it'll turn dark red).  You can purchase 5 gallons of potable water for $2us at the Tiki Palapa.

Cruiser's Net:  Monday thru Saturday's at 8am on VHF 74.  VHF 71 is the local hailing channel.

                              Other than the Fantasy Island Marina:

Bus:  Flag down a collectivo bus on the main road just outside Fantasy Island Marina & Resort.  They go to several places including Punta Gorda, Coxen and West End (must change buses in Coxen to get to West End).

Taxis:  They are cheaper if you flag one down at the main road.  It's easy to bargain with them.

Mega Mall:  The mall has 2 banks, a Dentist, Hair dresser's, Cel phone store, seafood store/restaurant, 2nd hand clothing store, a couple of clothes stores, coffee shop, Mama's laundry service, Optometrist, marine parts store, coffee shop, ice cream parlor, BBQ reataurant, an emergency hospital...

Hairdresser:  There's one at the Mega Mall however it's cheaper at the Pineapple Resort nearer to Fantasy Island.  If you spend $50 or more, you may use their facilities (pool, hot tub, sauna, ect...).

Diesel Engine Mechanic:  Percy.  Ask the marina managers for his phone number.

ACE hardware store:  On the main road between Fantasy Island Resort/Marina and Eldon's grocery store.

Pineapple Resort:  5 minute car ride from Fantasy Island, for $15 a day, you can use their facilities (pool, hot tub, sauna, ect...).  They are a full service spa (massage, hair, pedicure...).

Pristine Bay resort:  They have a beautiful restaurant up on a cliff with views of both sides of the island displaying the water and reefs.  Not cheap though...

Cel Phone:  Go to Claro at the Mega Mall.

Turtle Grass marina:  They monitor VHF 68.  Mobile: 504-3167-8319

Scuba Dive French Harbor area:
1. Fantasy Island Dive center:  Marina guests get a discount.  You can rent gear and dive on your own or go with them on one of their boats.  They cater to resort guests who have purchased a dive package first, then resort guests that want to dive a day here and there, then lastly it's marina guests.  Do not anchor, use the dive buoys if you are diving from your dinghy or simply do shore dives or dive from the gazebo.
2. Coco Beach Resort Dive:  Across from Fantasy island.  They only cater to their guests.  You cannot rent gear nor go on a dive with them.
3. Barefoot Resort dive shop:  It's about 4 miles from Fantasy Island.  I have no experience with them.

Scuba Dive West End area:  There are loads of dive shops to choose from.  Many if not all dive shops include equipment if you dive with them (all gear; mask, fins, weights, tank, BCD, Regulator).

Groceries:  Eldon's.  Take collectivo bus or dinghy to past Miss Annie's big black shrimp boat.  The Fantasy Island Marina also has a free weekly bus that takes you there and back, just tip the driver.

Dental:  Dr. Grant at the Mega Mall.  $46us to get your teeth cleaned.

Laundry Service:  Mama's at the Mega Mall is a laundry service.  Same day if you bring your clothes in by 10:00 am.

Shrimp & Fish market:  On the main road between Fantasy Island and Eldon's called Hyber's.  You can also purchase fresh fish at the Seafood store & restaurant at the Mega Mall.

Dinghy Dock:  If you anchor in French Harbor you may dock at Fantasy Island Marina for $2us / day.  You can also dock at Frenchie's 44 restaurant and at Miss Annie's.

Hospital:  At the Mega Mall & in the town of Coxen.

Banks/ATM:  There are 2 at the Mega Mall.  If you are in West End, use the safe ATM at the gas station.

January 20, 2017

ROATAN PART I - "The Underwater World"


COMMON OCTOPUS


Roatan is the largest of three islands off the coast of Honduras called The Bay Islands.  They are located near the Mesoamerica Barrier Reef, the largest barrier reef in the Caribbean Sea, 2nd largest after Australia’s Barrier Reef.  It seems that the whole island is surrounded by coral reefs and exquisite blue turquoise water. 

The underwater world is magical with all its colors, shapes and fish life.  One of my most enjoyable things to do while cruising is discovering coral and sponges and fish I haven’t seen before and trying to identify them.  When I was young, my mother used to call me a fish because I was always in the water. 

Although the sea is amazingly beautiful, it is also dangerous.  I found this out first hand.  On Monday, January 16, 2017, I went snorkeling with Dana, a fellow cruiser and friend.   Close to Little French Cay is a wonderful shallow area by the reef.  I like snorkeling here because it’s easy to do underwater photography.  Dana is also amazing is finding interesting sea life. 

I was in about 3 feet of water snorkeling and put my left hand down on top of the sand.  Faster than a lightning bolt, a large green moray eel attacked my hand.  He had been hiding in the rocks or coral about 1-2 feet from my hand.  I instinctively pulled my hand away.  I stood up, saw the blood and told Dana who was nearby that I was bitten by a green moray eel.  I can’t describe the pain, it was so intense.  If it wasn’t for Dana helping me swim back to my dinghy, I think I could have passed out and drowned.  The blood was gushing out and I was afraid sharks would be attracted.  I screamed and moaned while holding my hand above my head and kicking my fins to get to the dinghy.  We had to stop a couple of times, Dana was getting tired until, at last, a tourist boat heard me screaming and came to help.  I highly doubt I could have gotten into  my dinghy so getting on the tour boat was much easier.   I was told later that the tourists on the boat took several pictures of me.  I guess they have a story to tell from their vacation.

It’s a bit of a blur what exactly happened at the dive shop as I was in shock and trembling uncontrollably.  I do know they poured water on my wounds and Chris, the divemaster wrapped up my wound to try to stop the bleeding.  Someone also called Tim who was on our boat.  They helped me walk to Chris’s car and he drove me to the emergency room. 

I was given some anti anxious medicine and IV.  The doctor onsite called in a surgeon from another hospital for a better diagnosis.  Dr. William said that he thought my tendon was not damaged but would reevaluate in ten days.  There is nerve damage but hopefully one day, I’ll get some feeling back.  Normally, he would not have stitched me up however my artery and a vein were exposed so he gave me more than 20 stitches. 

Well, wouldn’t you know it; I am now the talk of the town.  People see my bandages and ask me “Are you that girl who got bitten by the eel?”

The marine Park was advised and on their facebook page, they put a notice not to feed the fish.  Most people think the reason why that eel was so aggressive is because many tour operators feed the fish to make more tips.  What we should all do is tell the operators that we will tip them if they DO NOT feed the fish.






DANA & SUSAN AT CHRISTMAS


What I read was that the bite of a moray eel can be much more painful than the bite of other predatory fishes of similar size.   It was suggested that bleeding and pain are related to a toxin in the slime coat of the skin and the mucous of the mouth. The mucous of moray eels was analyzed, and not just one, but several toxic substances were found. One of these substances is hemagglutinin. This is a glycoprotein that causes red blood cells to clump (my blood looked like gel). The toxin crinotoxins of morays lead to increased pain and bleeding.

Moray eels have two sets of sharp teeth; one in the jaw and the other at the back of the throat, similar to the creature in the movie “Alien”. Contact with humans occurs accidentally (divers and snorkelers) or intentionally, when moray eels are ‘hand fed’. Moray eels are not aggressive animals, but are territorial and will attack in self-defense.  Since their eyesight is poor, they usually confuse between the ‘feed’ and the hand that feeds them

There are many people who helped me and I want to thank all of you; Dana, Chris, Debbie, the guy on the tour boat, the guy who called Tim.  I am truly sorry if I missed naming you as it’s all a blur to me, but know that you did help and I truly appreciate it. 

I am having nightmares and I know it’ll be hard to get back in the water, but I will.  Be aware, be safe and don’t swim alone please.


GIANT ANEMONE

SPROUTING BLADE ALGA

CHRISTMAS TREE WORM

CHRISTMAS TREE WORM


COMMON OCTOPUS

COMMON OCTOPUS

COMMON OCTOPUS

MAGNIFICENT FEATHER DUSTER

PEACOCK FLOUNDER

PEACOCK FLOUNDER

PORCUPINE FISH



SQUID

THREESPOT DAMSELFISH - JUVENILE

CHAIN MORAY EEL

CHAIN MORAY EEL

STATUE IN THE MARINE PARK



ORANGE SPOTTED FILEFISH

RIBBON BLENNY

SCRAWLED FILEFISH

SPONGE



SPOTTED EAGLE RAY

SPOTTED TRUNKFISH


REEF URCHIN