May 22, 2014

HAPPY IN THE BAHAMAS (Dec.23, 2013 - Feb.1, 2014)

BIMINI, BAHAMAS
Between December 2013 and February 2014, we've been to Fort Lauderdale, Key Biscayne, Hurricane Hole, Bimini & Nassau in the Bahamas and several Cays and Islands along the Exumas.


IRENE, SUSAN & TIM at IRENE's CONDO in POMPANO BEACH
While in Fort Lauderdale, we visited my cousin Irene and her husband Jacques in Pompano beach.  They are originally from Shediac, New Brunswick, where my mother grew up. 

We all went to see a Panther's hockey game which was awesome since I haven't seen a live game in years !






Over 100 boats participated in the parade
Fort Lauderdale has a yearly Christmas boat parade that went right by our boat.





FORT LAUDERDALE
























Every place we stopped had a different feel and there was alway much to explore. The water in the Bahamas is extremely clear so you can see the bottom in about 30 to 40 feet of water. The weather has been mostly dry and it's just getting warmer and warmer, so much so that the water is starting to feel like bath water. Snorkeling occurs on most days where we've seen Nurse sharks, Reef fish, turtles, Southern Stingrays, Spotted stingrays, Conch, Slimy large wormlike looking things, Lion fish, Barracuda, Dolphins, Lobster, Squid and more. The most wonderful experience I had was when I saw a single dolphin around our boat. I jumped in with my snorkeling gear and we mimicked each other for about 20 minutes until she took off at the speed of light. 


Arrived in the Bahamas where Brown's marina invites all Quebecers & Canadians
XMAS pot luck with Quebecers


BIMINI, BAHAMAS

Both Tim & I aren't fishermen so even though we have tried very hard, we have yet to catch a fish. We often hear of people catching Mahi Mahi, Wahoo, Snapper & Mackerel. Cruisers are extremely generous with their fish, so at pot lucks, we'd often eat sushi and baked fish.

We've had lots of great days of sailing and we try to take advantage of the favorable winds as much as possible. Our two day sail from Bimini to Nassau was outstanding. We anchored for one night in what's called the Bahama banks which is an area of very shallow water, 10-20 feet deep and 50 miles across. It was a weird feeling anchoring in the middle of nowhere with no land in sight. Sailing down the Exuma Cays was possible on some days, and on other days, unfortunately, we had to motor. We haven't had any bad weather while sailing and the winds were mostly from the South East at an average of 15 knots.




NEW YEARS at PARADISE ISLAND RESORT


PARADISE ISLAND RESORT



New Year's Eve JUNKANOO parade in NASSAU
JUNKANOO started at 2:30am until about 2:00pm the next day
 Our boat is holding up well. Along the way, we found several anchorages where we were the only boat so it was like having an island all to ourselves. That was a real treat. However, in Georgetown, we have about 250 neighbors. We've enjoyed both being on our own and socializing with new & old friends in Georgetown. Georgetown has almost all the amenities a cruiser would need. For example, the local hair salon also sells seafood & lobster, go figure ! There's a good deli, grocery store, bakery, laundromat, restaurants & bars and so on.   

CLEAR WATER OF THE EXUMAS
Fresh water in the Bahamas is expensive. They charge anywhere from 40 to 80 cents a gallon. However, in Georgetown, you can tie up at the city dinghy dock where you can fill up your jerry cans for free. However, you have to make several trips to fill up your tanks, and each jerry can, when full, weighs about 50 pounds. 

On Stocking Island across from Georgetown, there is a small restaurant/bar called "Chat N' Chill" that plays killer music some nights and where many people dance the night away. It is an absolute blast. Near the bar is a stand where you can order conch salad which is made fresh right in front of you.

My friend Natalie from Montreal visited us then Tim's parents. We had a fantastic time with them. It was like Christmas when they arrived with treats and things we needed for the boat. But now, it's time for us to move on. We will be heading south to the Jumentos, Long Island and Conception Cay with our buddy boat "Angel Eyes", Rick & Nancy from Ontario. 

NATALIE OF MONTREAL, STOCKING ISLAND
SAND DOLLAR BEACH


PAT & DAVE TIEFENBACH
CATCHING SPINY LOBSTER






Commissioned by David Copperfield, the grand illusionist, "THE MUSICIAN" was submerged in clearn, warm shallow waters on the private island of Musha Cay, part of the Islands of Copperfield Bay, Bahamas.



March 13, 2014

ARTICAL FOR THE DILLON MARINA NEWLETTER

From Cat Island, Bahamas:  I received an email from the Manager of the Dillon Marina, asking me write an article.  Here it is:
 
          
Have you ever dreamed of going cruising ? My husband Tim & I did for many years and finally, after I got laid off from my IT position and Tim quit his job at Vail resorts, we went hunting for a sailboat and eventually purchased an Island Packet 38.

Racing on Lake Dillon for the past several years certainly helped my sailing skills, but did not prepare me to go cruising.
I found out really fast that not only do you need to know how to sail, but you need to be an electrician, mechanic, nurse, seamstress, cook, planner, fisherman, plumber, navigator, weatherman, painter, contortionist, and you also need to be somewhat of a McGyver. You need to understand how everything works on a boat, how it's wired, and how to fix it, because almost everything will either quit working or will need replacement eventually. Imagine taking a house, shaking it fiercely and pouring loads of salt water into your home and voila, you get rust, mold, mildew, corrosion, you name it.

You need lots of patience. Forget fast internet or good phone service. Sometimes, you are 'stuck' in a place just waiting for weeks for the right weather window. You'll never be bored waiting as there is always something to clean or fix !

Groceries are very expensive in some areas and fresh produce is not always available on that day. If you like cabbage, carrots & potatoes, you could probably get those. Seafood ? try fishing or go to the local hair dresser's, she has a freezer full of seafood her husband catches for sale.

Once you find the lady that does laundry, she may not feel like doing laundry that day, in the meantime, you've carried your loads of laundry all around town sweating from the heat of the Islands.

Oh, and the paper work: Did you remember your cruising permit? Fishing License, Dinghy registration; Is your boat registered with the US coast guard?, don't forget to test and register your EPIRB, is your passport about to expire?, don't forget your property taxes, bills, and yup, tax forms ! Did you know you need a FCC license to use a VHF & SSB? I got jury duty, ha ha ha. Nope, you can't just call to tell them you are out of the country, you must sign and fax the form. Fax ?

You need a part shipped? Where are you going to ship it to? What? 40 percent import duty charge ? It'll take what, 20 days to get here? Oh, that's if the mailboat gets here on time. Patience ! Now I have time to remove some more rust or fix something. Something must need fixing, right ?

Tools? Bring them all. We have 50 pounds worth of tools on board however I do know some cruisers that have 100 pounds. Spare parts? You will definitely use some of them at one point in time. If you don't need it, someone may and you'll feel good about helping out a fellow cruiser.

I thought, not working meant l would have lots of time to myself to relax, read all those books I've been meaning to read, visit many different places and live off the ocean by catching all those pelagic fish, right ? That is so far from the truth. Ok, we did spear a total of 9 Lobsters and one Warsaw Grouper to date. You can't get seafood fresher than that !

I wished for deserted Islands where I could anchor and have nobody in sight. Yeah right. When you find that special place, someone will anchor, not in the vicinity but usually way too close to you. It's called the herding syndrome. You know those anchors you see on charts ? You'll never be alone there ! Don't fret, there are places where you can be alone, you just have to find them.

So why do people like us go cruising ? The good outweighs the bad. A bad day sailing is better than a good day at work. At night when it's pitch dark, we lay down up on deck to watch the gazillion stars, which is much more interesting than any TV show. And then there are those days that the wind is blowing at 20 knots and coming from the right direction for a screaming beam reach and your speed is over 8 knots for hours on end without having to tack once. That's why we go cruising, for those days when the sailing is just perfect.

One afternoon, a lone dolphin was swimming around our boat. I jumped in with snorkeling gear and she imitated everything I did. She was so close to me, I could have touched her. This was a wild animal, not some place where you pay $200 to swim with dolphins. That was certainly something I will never forget.

Cruisers are happy people, friendly, extremely helpful and resourceful. You need help with something? Just ask, cruisers jump to help out, seriously.

Once you get over the shock of what cruising is really all about, you get to enjoy the pristine white beaches and crystal clear aqua water. While snorkeling we often see Trigger fish, Trunkfish, Scrawled cowfish, Southern stingrays, Spotted eagle rays, Parrotfish, Squid, Sea anemones, Loggerhead turtles, Nurse, Lemon and Bull sharks and many more reef fish. There are huge seashells such as the Measled cowrie, Pink conch, Bleeding tooth, Sunrise tellin and so much more.

We enjoy the local food, warm weather, cool breezes, amazing people and tons of places to visit.

Locals are proud, very friendly, and always willing to talk, sometimes endlessly. Kara at the bakery talked about the history of the Island and how families are arguing about what land is owed to them. Millie proudly showed us her small banana plantation and explained how bananas grow & all the different types of bananas. And then there was almost toothless Brenda who was selling gifts from Miami she had bought while visiting there. She told us stories about her sisters who had 24 kids each and how everybody is related on the Island. Then there was Mr. Williams who so proudly sold me some vegetables he grows on his 10 acre land. Ugy saw me start to walk the half a mile to my boat in the rain in pitch darkness. He borrowed a golf cart and drove me to my boat.

Our first year is our shake out year. What works for us, what doesn't, what do we need, what do we need to get rid of. This summer, we'll attempt to rig her up the way we'd like for some more serious sailing. By that I mean, cross oceans and visiting places beyond the US, Canada and the Bahamas.

We sometimes think of our home in Dillon and miss the people at the Dillon Marina, the Yacht club, the Tiki bar, Pugs and all our friends and family and yes, we do miss skiing but this is a new adventure for us and there's never a dull moment. So if you think you want to go cruising? Stop dreaming and JUST DO IT !

December 11, 2013

ST-MARY's, GA -> ST-AUGUSTINE -> DAYTONA -> TITUSVILLE -> COCOA VILLAGE, FL (Dec.1 - 11, 2013)


We left Saint Mary's on December 1st to Sister's creek. We anchored there however there is a free city dock where you can spend the night. We didn't see any literature about it probably because it was built recently, about 2 years ago.  (The following year, we did stay at the city dock).

We arrived in St-Augustine on December 2nd by means of the ICW. We paid $20 a night for a mooring buoy which included hot showers and laundry facilities.

ALPENGLOW MORRED IN FRONT OF THE LYONS BRIDGE IN ST-AUGUSTINE

Notice Alpenglow in the background

St. Augustine is the oldest continuously occupied European-established settlement and port in the continental United States. San Agustín was founded in September 1565 by Spanish admiral Pedro Menéndez. We visited the Castillo de San Marcos, which was built by the Spanish to protect the city of St-Augustine.

CASTILLO DE SAN MARCOS

St-Augustine is a quaint city with little shops, art museums, restaurants and many B&Bs. We had a lovely dinner of Lobster pot pie and Sea food paella which was mouth watering. How nice not to cook & clean !!!



It so happened that my girlfriend Tammy Burkey from Colorado was working in Jacksonville that week. She drove down to St-Augustine to visit with us. It was so nice to see someone familiar for a change. After drinks and dinner on board, we walked the town to look at all the Christmas lights. 













We left St-Augustine on December 5th towards Daytona (47 nmi) via the ICW since there just wasn't enough wind to sail outside. In Daytona, we anchored then walked across the bridge to the beach just to get off the boat. I can't say that I really like Daytona, so my motto is "DAY"tona is only good for a DAY trip unless you like the speedway of course.

It was somewhat tricky to anchor in Daytona because of the very shallow waters. You have to line up markers behind you so that you don't run aground. Also, there was quite a current going on while we anchored but managed fine. Not too far from us a Catamaran ran aground and got Tow Boat US to tow them off the shoal. So where do you think they anchored ? Right next to us. So close that Tim & I watched them very carefully until, they were just too close for comfort. We asked them to leave and they were very apologetic. They just did not seem to know what they were doing.

December 7th: We left Daytona towards Titusville (41 nmi) down the ICW.

IN TITUSVILLE
 December 8th: Left Titusville to Cocoa village (20 nmi). Being Sunday, there was an outdoor arts & crafts festival going on. I really didn't like much of the crafts so off we went to the Florida Key Lime pie factory. It was only a short walk away. We bought a deep dish key lime pie for $20 ! That should last only a few days !

Good 'ol facebook. I met Mike in New York City in 1985 along with his adopted Grandmother Lady Alice Mead (related to the famous Anthropologist Margaret Mead). I didn't know at the time but Alice is titled, wow, I know royalty or somewhat near to royalty !!!! Mike & Alice are from Australia and at the time they were traveling around the world (they've been around the world twice since then). In 1985, Alice was already in her 80s. For years, Alice would write me a nice long letter and send me a calendar every Christmas until her passing. She was so funny & delightful, I wish I had spent more time with her.

Mike happened to be in Florida and we crossed paths in Cocoa. We met for drinks and talked about when we met and the people we knew. It was pure luck that we hooked up and all because of facebook. Mike has good friends in the Marquesas since he spent many months helping his student open a business. He wants to meet us there in the near future. We definitely will !

I'm sitting here anchored at Cape Canaveral. Dolphins are poking their fins out and manatees are swimming by. It's just an absolutely beautiful day to write. I just wish there was a launch but no such luck.  We did however pass a Carnival Cruise ship.




We are going offshore tomorrow towards Fort Lauderdale. It should only take about 24 hours. Once in Fort Lauderdale, we need to provision and get some more 'stuff' for the boat before our departure to the Bahamas once we get a good weather window.






Hint for Cruisers:
1 - St-Augustine: at the city moorings, better to be north of the bridge which is closest to the dinghy dock.  There are several machines in the laundry mat & great showers.
2 - St-Augustine: At the Legend, I think it's on Friday nights, they have lobster for very reasonable prices.
3 - Cocoa Village:  Buy very good Key Lime pies at the Key Lime Pie Factory.
4 - Cocoa Village:  You can bike very easily from Cocoa Village to Cocoa Beach or take the bus.  Along the way you will find every imaginable store.
5 - Biscane Bay, FL:  Great little anchorage before heading out to the Bahamas.  There is NO dinghy access at all.

December 1, 2013

CHARLESTON, South Carolina to SAINT MARY'S, Georgia (Nov.25 - Dec.1, 2013)

After spending several days in Charleston, we left on November 25th and sailed offshore towards the St-Simon's inlet in Georgia. This trip only took us 24 hours however, again, the winds were strong and relentless. More dancing to 70s music.

We arrived at St-Simon's inlet and motored to Jekyll Island. We anchored there and didn't get off the boat. In the morning, we decided to leave at low tide in case we'd run aground and because of the current. We were aground for only about 45 minutes until the tide came up. This was expected. With our center board up, we draw about 4.5 feet so it was pretty shallow in this area.

The very next day we left Jekyll Island towards Saint Mary's Georgia by means of the ICW. We went across St-Andrew's sound against 30 knot winds and it was pretty darn rough....again. I'm certainly getting used to it and our boat handles it extremely well. It fact, sailors do say that most boats handle bad weather better than the crew. That's so true.

We arrived the day before Thanksgiving in Saint Mary's, Georgia where we docked for 4 nights. And what a docking it was. Strong winds made it difficult to get into the dock without hitting the boat but we managed just fine. Being docked meant we had shore power and thus we were able to use our heater. It was quite cold again and finally got some relief from it with our heater. There was no time to waste as the city put on an oyster roast for the cruisers that evening.

TWO DAYS BEFORE THANKSGIVING
At the city hotel, 5 minute walk from our boat, we found 150 sailors swapping stories and getting to know each other over cocktails and oysters. What a feast.




FREE OYSTER FEAST PUT ON BY THE TONW OF ST-MARY'S

I am realizing that most cruisers are older than us by about 10 years. Some have just begun cruising like us others have been on their boat for 15 years and went all over the world. We made numerous friends and hopefully, we'll meet up with some of them in the Bahamas. However, along our route, we constantly see cruisers we've met in other ports. 

NANCY & RICK on s/v ANGEL EYES BECAME GOOD FRIENDS AND BOAT BUDDIES OF OURS

I am speaking French more than ever. There are many cruisers from Québec. Almost everywhere we go, I hear French. Apparently, many go as far as Grenada and leave their boats there for the summer while they earn their stay in Québec to keep their health insurance. I believe they must remain in Canada 180 days a year. From what I've been told, the Government does allow them to remain outside the country for a 2 year period every 5 years or so.

Back to Saint Mary's Thanksgiving bash....There were volunteers willing to drive the cruisers to grocery stores, laundromats, West Marine or any other store we required. We took advantage of this and stocked up on provisions on Thanksgiving day. There was a huge Thanksgiving Pot Luck. Since there were left overs, we were able to bring some home for the next day. All was very delicious. Now, do you wonder how do sailors cook a turkey on board ? They don't or they cook turkey legs. Volunteers from the city cooked turkeys and hams for the pot luck and didn't charge us anything although there were tip boxed. There just isn't enough thank yous for all the locals and volunteers who put on several days of celebrating. It didn't stop at Thanksgiving of course. There were happy hours after that and a pancake breakfast.


On our last day in Saint Mary's, we took a ferry (yeah, we could have motored), to Cumberland Island where JFK Junior got married. It was very windy and cold and slightly rainy. We had all the necessary gear on so we stayed dry and warm. Some people were dressed in fashionable leggins and flip flops. Gads, I'm glad I'm old enough now to know better. We went back to this place the following year and weather was much warmer :)






THE CARNEGIE's HOME
In the early 1880s, Thomas Morrison Carnegie and his wife, Lucy Coleman Carnegie, came to Cumberland Island and established the family's presence, which exists to the present day. They were extremely rich and mostly lived a life of leisure.












The island boasts wild horses and smaller wildlife. The Island now is part of the National Parks service.










Hints for cruisers:
1 - Thanksgiving activities start a week before Thanksgiving so get there early.
2 - Across from the hotel, there's a candy store that has coined laundry. in the back
3 - If you don't want to take your big boat to Cumberland Island, take the ferry

November 25, 2013

MOREHEAD CITY to CHARLESTON, South Carolina (Nov.19 - 25, 2013)


PREPARING THE JIB FOR AN OVERNIGHT PASSAGE
          
ROUGH PASSAGE
From Morehead city we sailed outside for 225 nmi. Winds were constant at around 25 and gusts to 37 kts. The boat was constantly rocking back & forth for 36 hours and surfing down 12 foot waves. The XM radio on the 70s channel sure helped pass the time while hanging onto the back shrouds, otherwise, I'd get bounced around. I was very happy that it was a full moon, so much so that I sang almost all the time while on watch & did some dance moves to keep warm.





We arrived in Charleston, South Carolina on November 21st. After a hardy breakfast & a nap, off we went visiting this Colonial city. Charleston is the oldest and second-largest city in the southeastern State of South Carolina. We visited the historic and French districts. The large, I mean 14,000 square foot large Colonial homes are very impressive and absolutely beautiful along South Battery street facing the river. I was vey impressed how many colonial homes are still standing all throughout the city. Most are renovated, some need a little TLC.





















FREE TROLLEY
SAFE CITY
Getting around Charleston is    easy and the use of the free Trolley brings you to almost everywhere you'd want to go.





AT MAGNOLIA PLANTATION
The Magnolia plantation is  surrounded by several types of gardens, lakes with alligators, romantic bridges and of course the many acres of land for growing rice. 



My favorite meal in Charleston was shrimp & grits with an amber beer, of all places, in an Irish pub. We also purchased okra chips at the market. It's a great snack but never ever would I eat it raw, it's just way too slimy that way.

November 11, 2013

DELTAVILLE, VA to ELIZABETH CITY, NC (Nov.8 - 11, 2013)

          

IT WAS VERY COLD !

It's time to leave Deltaville, Virginia and head south before it gets too cold.  OOPS, too late, it's freezing !

Renaming of the boat: Done.  Life raft on the deck: Done. Ditch bag: Done. Fixing this and that: Done. It's all done so time to leave. Better yet: It'll never be done so let's just go and have fun. So, off we went on a Friday...I know, some sailors say never to leave on a Friday, but we did just fine.

Friday, November 8th. Departure time: 7am. Weather: Sunny. Wind: N10. Temperature: 45F. It was cold. Very cold. We had everything warm we owned on our backs. The winds were pretty weak at the beginning of our sail but soon picked up to 15 and gusts to 25. We sailed all day except for when we had to take evasive action when a huge aircraft carrier was coming out of it's slip. We motored to get out of his way, because simply, he was so big, it was quite intimidating. In no time, we set sail once more.


WISCONSIN WAR SHIP
We travelled 52 miles and finally anchored in Norfolk, Virginia across from the Wisconsin War ship and the Nauticus Museum. It was still quite cold so heating up the oven for pizza that night was a nice treat.
Tim caught my cold but he was well enough to spend the day with me visiting the Wisconsin war ship & the Nauticus Museum. We dinghy'ed across the channel and tied up next to the Wisconsin.




SAILLING BY SEVERAL LARGE SHIPS









Since it was nice and warm, we wanted to spend some time outdoors so we walked downtown Norfolk and along the historic district. For a Saturday, the streets were very quiet. Well, we found the crowd ! They were all at the mall. We entered the mall to get some batteries at Radio Shack and ran out of there as soon as we could. 

We spent Saturday evening discussing our next route and read under the warm covers of our bed.

Sunday, Nov. 11th. Time of departure: 8:30am. I'm not sure how cold it was but it was certainly much warmer than the last few days. We spent most of today in long pants and t-shirts. The Gilmerton bridge was opened at 9:30 so there was no use in leaving any earlier. We started down the ICW at Mile marker 0 ! We decided to go down the Dismal Swamp. We had no choice anyhow because the lock on the other route is dissabled.

There were 7 boats going thru the Deer Creek lock. It took one and a half hours to get thru ! Much longer than the 12 locks we went thru this summer down the Champlain canal. We already met a few people going our way. A young couple from New York, Rachel & Jonathan. It was their first lock and bridge. How exciting ! On a large Cat, Brian & Jim delivering the boat to Mexico. Jim & Linda on a troller. Jim used to work at the Naval Academy in Annapolis taking care of their sailboat fleet. He retired last May. A couple from Nova Scotia and more.

At Mile marker 28, is the Dismal Swamp Visitor's center. 7 boats rafted up and we had cocktails all together swamping stories. It was such fun. After dinner, many of our new friends came aboard and we served them hot tea, cocktails and brownies I just took out of the oven.

Next morning we all left pretty early to go thru the Mills lock. We had a more difficult time in the lock whereby the current took our stern along with other boats and well, we ended up pointing north. No worries, we were able to turn around, however the lock attendant wasn't too happy because we all took too long. Oh well.

ICW - LEAVES WERE TURNING COLOR
This part of the ICW was really nice as the trees were turning color. The weather was really good, cool but sunny and not too windy. We arrived in Elizabeth City, docking at their free city docks on Monday, November 11th. Our neighbors are a mix of sailors from Vancouver, Quebec city, and the Netherlands. Some are new to cruising, other's have been around the world and on their boats for 15 years.

We would of left this morning to go south however the weather is calling for NNW winds up to 21 mph and rain/snow mix tonight. If the winds stay NNW, we'll be leaving tomorrow.

 
ELIZABETH CITY DOCK


HAVING DRINKS WITH NEIGHBOR CRUISERS
IT SNOWED THAT NIGHT

STAYING WARM with JONATHAN & RACHEL
Hints for cruisers:
1- In Elizabeth city, the city docks are free.  There's not much room but you can look at their webcam before you get there to see if there's room. 
2 - From the city dock, there's a shop, 2 minutes away that have loner bikes.
3 - You can shower at the gym for $5.
4 - Walking distance to the library with fast free wifi.
5 - Museum is not to be missed.


November 5, 2013

RENAMING CEREMONY (November, 2013)



We finally had a ceremony to rename the current name of our boat. One must do a proper ceremony to ensure safe passage and favorable winds. 

We purged the old name 'Kristinly' and asked Neptune and the God winds to bless the new name of 'Alpenglow'. Our neighboring sail friends joined us in the celebration. Lots of champagne was poured and cake was served.

What a wonderful day !
     
Hints for cruisers:  
1- We stayed at the Boat yard at 519 Deagles Road in Deltaville, VA.  It has laundry, showers, and a loner truck.  It is a good boatyard and it is rough.  I've seen better but they are friendly and very helpful. 
2- The airport is more than one hour away.  You can get a car from Enterprise, ask them for a corporate rate reduction.