June 1, 2014

BAHAMAS and back to the USA (Feb.2 - June, 2014)


There are approximately 700 Islands in the Bahamas. We couldn't have possibly visited them all but we managed to stop at many of them. We met the most wonderful Bahamians & Cruisers. Some, we hope to meet again.

We left Double Breasted Cay for our voyage back to the US. We couldn't make it directly to Beaufort, North Carolina because of thunderstorms & wind so we stopped in Charleston, South Carolina for a few days. Afterwards, we sailed another 2 days to Beaufort, NC where we put Alpenglow on the hard for the summer.

                                Here's a short view of what we were up to in the Bahamas:

SAND DOLLAR BEACH (Exumas): When the tide is ebbing, you can see the sand and walk quite a ways.




What is this ???? It has 3 inch spikes on one side and looks like millions of feet on the other side. It's about the size of a football. Tim stepped on it and it hurt for about a week.



The water is so clear in the Exumas you can see star fish from the boat.

                      I was so lucky that Natalie was able to come and visit us from Montreal.



Tim's parents, Pat & Dave celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary

David Copperfield commissioned this stainless steel grand piano and mermaid named "The Musician". It is submerged near his private Island of Musha Cay. It was installed in 2011, 4 meters below the surface. Below, I am playing the piano. Notice the difference between 2011 and 2014.





TIM UP THE MAST

DEAN'S BLUE HOLE:  It is the world's deepest known blue hole. It plunges 202 meters (663 ft) in a bay west of Clarence Town on Long Island, Bahamas.



















PAPAYA
BANANA POD

We managed to spear many spiny lobsters & share them with Nancy & Rick on "Angle Eyes"


























You can find these beautiful carved brain corals by Bobbie, the owner of the Sumner Point Marina in Rum Cay. Unfortunately, the marina was hard hit by hurricanes and is now closed however you can dock for free but there are no amenities.

























How many people can say that they biked the whole length of a runway? I did, at Rum Cay.
RUM CAY AIRPORT RUNWAY



  Locals having fun playing instruments in Rum Cay




















In San Salvador we had strong winds so we decided to hide away in a marina. I'm really glad we did that since I got vertigo for 4 days. Here's a picture of Alpenglow and our buddy boat Angel eyes from a cemetery in San Salvador.



















We biked around the whole island of San Salvador, 38 miles.  Along the way we visited the Dixon Hill Lighthouse.









































ANGEL EYES in SAN SALVADORE


While sailing to Cat island, we caught our first fish ever ! 
A mutton snapper.  It was YUMMY !


In North Eleuthera, I found the biggest asparagus ever !













PINK BEACH IN ELEUTHERA ALL TO OURSELVES

While biking we found a pineapple farm.  The owner was very friendly and showed us all around.  This was between Hatchet Bay and Gregory Town in Eleuthera. 
PINEAPPLE PLANT


PIGEON PEAS


WORKER TENDING TO THE PINEAPPLES

Hatchet Bat caves in Eleuthera. It's very deep and dark, requiring at least 2 headlamps in case one goes out !



















                           Brenda & Al got free crab from a fisherman and shared with us




May 22, 2014

HAPPY IN THE BAHAMAS (Dec.23, 2013 - Feb.1, 2014)

BIMINI, BAHAMAS
Between December 2013 and February 2014, we've been to Fort Lauderdale, Key Biscayne, Hurricane Hole, Bimini & Nassau in the Bahamas and several Cays and Islands along the Exumas.


IRENE, SUSAN & TIM at IRENE's CONDO in POMPANO BEACH
While in Fort Lauderdale, we visited my cousin Irene and her husband Jacques in Pompano beach.  They are originally from Shediac, New Brunswick, where my mother grew up. 

We all went to see a Panther's hockey game which was awesome since I haven't seen a live game in years !






Over 100 boats participated in the parade
Fort Lauderdale has a yearly Christmas boat parade that went right by our boat.





FORT LAUDERDALE
























Every place we stopped had a different feel and there was alway much to explore. The water in the Bahamas is extremely clear so you can see the bottom in about 30 to 40 feet of water. The weather has been mostly dry and it's just getting warmer and warmer, so much so that the water is starting to feel like bath water. Snorkeling occurs on most days where we've seen Nurse sharks, Reef fish, turtles, Southern Stingrays, Spotted stingrays, Conch, Slimy large wormlike looking things, Lion fish, Barracuda, Dolphins, Lobster, Squid and more. The most wonderful experience I had was when I saw a single dolphin around our boat. I jumped in with my snorkeling gear and we mimicked each other for about 20 minutes until she took off at the speed of light. 


Arrived in the Bahamas where Brown's marina invites all Quebecers & Canadians
XMAS pot luck with Quebecers


BIMINI, BAHAMAS

Both Tim & I aren't fishermen so even though we have tried very hard, we have yet to catch a fish. We often hear of people catching Mahi Mahi, Wahoo, Snapper & Mackerel. Cruisers are extremely generous with their fish, so at pot lucks, we'd often eat sushi and baked fish.

We've had lots of great days of sailing and we try to take advantage of the favorable winds as much as possible. Our two day sail from Bimini to Nassau was outstanding. We anchored for one night in what's called the Bahama banks which is an area of very shallow water, 10-20 feet deep and 50 miles across. It was a weird feeling anchoring in the middle of nowhere with no land in sight. Sailing down the Exuma Cays was possible on some days, and on other days, unfortunately, we had to motor. We haven't had any bad weather while sailing and the winds were mostly from the South East at an average of 15 knots.




NEW YEARS at PARADISE ISLAND RESORT


PARADISE ISLAND RESORT



New Year's Eve JUNKANOO parade in NASSAU
JUNKANOO started at 2:30am until about 2:00pm the next day
 Our boat is holding up well. Along the way, we found several anchorages where we were the only boat so it was like having an island all to ourselves. That was a real treat. However, in Georgetown, we have about 250 neighbors. We've enjoyed both being on our own and socializing with new & old friends in Georgetown. Georgetown has almost all the amenities a cruiser would need. For example, the local hair salon also sells seafood & lobster, go figure ! There's a good deli, grocery store, bakery, laundromat, restaurants & bars and so on.   

CLEAR WATER OF THE EXUMAS
Fresh water in the Bahamas is expensive. They charge anywhere from 40 to 80 cents a gallon. However, in Georgetown, you can tie up at the city dinghy dock where you can fill up your jerry cans for free. However, you have to make several trips to fill up your tanks, and each jerry can, when full, weighs about 50 pounds. 

On Stocking Island across from Georgetown, there is a small restaurant/bar called "Chat N' Chill" that plays killer music some nights and where many people dance the night away. It is an absolute blast. Near the bar is a stand where you can order conch salad which is made fresh right in front of you.

My friend Natalie from Montreal visited us then Tim's parents. We had a fantastic time with them. It was like Christmas when they arrived with treats and things we needed for the boat. But now, it's time for us to move on. We will be heading south to the Jumentos, Long Island and Conception Cay with our buddy boat "Angel Eyes", Rick & Nancy from Ontario. 

NATALIE OF MONTREAL, STOCKING ISLAND
SAND DOLLAR BEACH


PAT & DAVE TIEFENBACH
CATCHING SPINY LOBSTER






Commissioned by David Copperfield, the grand illusionist, "THE MUSICIAN" was submerged in clearn, warm shallow waters on the private island of Musha Cay, part of the Islands of Copperfield Bay, Bahamas.



March 13, 2014

ARTICAL FOR THE DILLON MARINA NEWLETTER

From Cat Island, Bahamas:  I received an email from the Manager of the Dillon Marina, asking me write an article.  Here it is:
 
          
Have you ever dreamed of going cruising ? My husband Tim & I did for many years and finally, after I got laid off from my IT position and Tim quit his job at Vail resorts, we went hunting for a sailboat and eventually purchased an Island Packet 38.

Racing on Lake Dillon for the past several years certainly helped my sailing skills, but did not prepare me to go cruising.
I found out really fast that not only do you need to know how to sail, but you need to be an electrician, mechanic, nurse, seamstress, cook, planner, fisherman, plumber, navigator, weatherman, painter, contortionist, and you also need to be somewhat of a McGyver. You need to understand how everything works on a boat, how it's wired, and how to fix it, because almost everything will either quit working or will need replacement eventually. Imagine taking a house, shaking it fiercely and pouring loads of salt water into your home and voila, you get rust, mold, mildew, corrosion, you name it.

You need lots of patience. Forget fast internet or good phone service. Sometimes, you are 'stuck' in a place just waiting for weeks for the right weather window. You'll never be bored waiting as there is always something to clean or fix !

Groceries are very expensive in some areas and fresh produce is not always available on that day. If you like cabbage, carrots & potatoes, you could probably get those. Seafood ? try fishing or go to the local hair dresser's, she has a freezer full of seafood her husband catches for sale.

Once you find the lady that does laundry, she may not feel like doing laundry that day, in the meantime, you've carried your loads of laundry all around town sweating from the heat of the Islands.

Oh, and the paper work: Did you remember your cruising permit? Fishing License, Dinghy registration; Is your boat registered with the US coast guard?, don't forget to test and register your EPIRB, is your passport about to expire?, don't forget your property taxes, bills, and yup, tax forms ! Did you know you need a FCC license to use a VHF & SSB? I got jury duty, ha ha ha. Nope, you can't just call to tell them you are out of the country, you must sign and fax the form. Fax ?

You need a part shipped? Where are you going to ship it to? What? 40 percent import duty charge ? It'll take what, 20 days to get here? Oh, that's if the mailboat gets here on time. Patience ! Now I have time to remove some more rust or fix something. Something must need fixing, right ?

Tools? Bring them all. We have 50 pounds worth of tools on board however I do know some cruisers that have 100 pounds. Spare parts? You will definitely use some of them at one point in time. If you don't need it, someone may and you'll feel good about helping out a fellow cruiser.

I thought, not working meant l would have lots of time to myself to relax, read all those books I've been meaning to read, visit many different places and live off the ocean by catching all those pelagic fish, right ? That is so far from the truth. Ok, we did spear a total of 9 Lobsters and one Warsaw Grouper to date. You can't get seafood fresher than that !

I wished for deserted Islands where I could anchor and have nobody in sight. Yeah right. When you find that special place, someone will anchor, not in the vicinity but usually way too close to you. It's called the herding syndrome. You know those anchors you see on charts ? You'll never be alone there ! Don't fret, there are places where you can be alone, you just have to find them.

So why do people like us go cruising ? The good outweighs the bad. A bad day sailing is better than a good day at work. At night when it's pitch dark, we lay down up on deck to watch the gazillion stars, which is much more interesting than any TV show. And then there are those days that the wind is blowing at 20 knots and coming from the right direction for a screaming beam reach and your speed is over 8 knots for hours on end without having to tack once. That's why we go cruising, for those days when the sailing is just perfect.

One afternoon, a lone dolphin was swimming around our boat. I jumped in with snorkeling gear and she imitated everything I did. She was so close to me, I could have touched her. This was a wild animal, not some place where you pay $200 to swim with dolphins. That was certainly something I will never forget.

Cruisers are happy people, friendly, extremely helpful and resourceful. You need help with something? Just ask, cruisers jump to help out, seriously.

Once you get over the shock of what cruising is really all about, you get to enjoy the pristine white beaches and crystal clear aqua water. While snorkeling we often see Trigger fish, Trunkfish, Scrawled cowfish, Southern stingrays, Spotted eagle rays, Parrotfish, Squid, Sea anemones, Loggerhead turtles, Nurse, Lemon and Bull sharks and many more reef fish. There are huge seashells such as the Measled cowrie, Pink conch, Bleeding tooth, Sunrise tellin and so much more.

We enjoy the local food, warm weather, cool breezes, amazing people and tons of places to visit.

Locals are proud, very friendly, and always willing to talk, sometimes endlessly. Kara at the bakery talked about the history of the Island and how families are arguing about what land is owed to them. Millie proudly showed us her small banana plantation and explained how bananas grow & all the different types of bananas. And then there was almost toothless Brenda who was selling gifts from Miami she had bought while visiting there. She told us stories about her sisters who had 24 kids each and how everybody is related on the Island. Then there was Mr. Williams who so proudly sold me some vegetables he grows on his 10 acre land. Ugy saw me start to walk the half a mile to my boat in the rain in pitch darkness. He borrowed a golf cart and drove me to my boat.

Our first year is our shake out year. What works for us, what doesn't, what do we need, what do we need to get rid of. This summer, we'll attempt to rig her up the way we'd like for some more serious sailing. By that I mean, cross oceans and visiting places beyond the US, Canada and the Bahamas.

We sometimes think of our home in Dillon and miss the people at the Dillon Marina, the Yacht club, the Tiki bar, Pugs and all our friends and family and yes, we do miss skiing but this is a new adventure for us and there's never a dull moment. So if you think you want to go cruising? Stop dreaming and JUST DO IT !

December 11, 2013

ST-MARY's, GA -> ST-AUGUSTINE -> DAYTONA -> TITUSVILLE -> COCOA VILLAGE, FL (Dec.1 - 11, 2013)


We left Saint Mary's on December 1st to Sister's creek. We anchored there however there is a free city dock where you can spend the night. We didn't see any literature about it probably because it was built recently, about 2 years ago.  (The following year, we did stay at the city dock).

We arrived in St-Augustine on December 2nd by means of the ICW. We paid $20 a night for a mooring buoy which included hot showers and laundry facilities.

ALPENGLOW MORRED IN FRONT OF THE LYONS BRIDGE IN ST-AUGUSTINE

Notice Alpenglow in the background

St. Augustine is the oldest continuously occupied European-established settlement and port in the continental United States. San Agustín was founded in September 1565 by Spanish admiral Pedro Menéndez. We visited the Castillo de San Marcos, which was built by the Spanish to protect the city of St-Augustine.

CASTILLO DE SAN MARCOS

St-Augustine is a quaint city with little shops, art museums, restaurants and many B&Bs. We had a lovely dinner of Lobster pot pie and Sea food paella which was mouth watering. How nice not to cook & clean !!!



It so happened that my girlfriend Tammy Burkey from Colorado was working in Jacksonville that week. She drove down to St-Augustine to visit with us. It was so nice to see someone familiar for a change. After drinks and dinner on board, we walked the town to look at all the Christmas lights. 













We left St-Augustine on December 5th towards Daytona (47 nmi) via the ICW since there just wasn't enough wind to sail outside. In Daytona, we anchored then walked across the bridge to the beach just to get off the boat. I can't say that I really like Daytona, so my motto is "DAY"tona is only good for a DAY trip unless you like the speedway of course.

It was somewhat tricky to anchor in Daytona because of the very shallow waters. You have to line up markers behind you so that you don't run aground. Also, there was quite a current going on while we anchored but managed fine. Not too far from us a Catamaran ran aground and got Tow Boat US to tow them off the shoal. So where do you think they anchored ? Right next to us. So close that Tim & I watched them very carefully until, they were just too close for comfort. We asked them to leave and they were very apologetic. They just did not seem to know what they were doing.

December 7th: We left Daytona towards Titusville (41 nmi) down the ICW.

IN TITUSVILLE
 December 8th: Left Titusville to Cocoa village (20 nmi). Being Sunday, there was an outdoor arts & crafts festival going on. I really didn't like much of the crafts so off we went to the Florida Key Lime pie factory. It was only a short walk away. We bought a deep dish key lime pie for $20 ! That should last only a few days !

Good 'ol facebook. I met Mike in New York City in 1985 along with his adopted Grandmother Lady Alice Mead (related to the famous Anthropologist Margaret Mead). I didn't know at the time but Alice is titled, wow, I know royalty or somewhat near to royalty !!!! Mike & Alice are from Australia and at the time they were traveling around the world (they've been around the world twice since then). In 1985, Alice was already in her 80s. For years, Alice would write me a nice long letter and send me a calendar every Christmas until her passing. She was so funny & delightful, I wish I had spent more time with her.

Mike happened to be in Florida and we crossed paths in Cocoa. We met for drinks and talked about when we met and the people we knew. It was pure luck that we hooked up and all because of facebook. Mike has good friends in the Marquesas since he spent many months helping his student open a business. He wants to meet us there in the near future. We definitely will !

I'm sitting here anchored at Cape Canaveral. Dolphins are poking their fins out and manatees are swimming by. It's just an absolutely beautiful day to write. I just wish there was a launch but no such luck.  We did however pass a Carnival Cruise ship.




We are going offshore tomorrow towards Fort Lauderdale. It should only take about 24 hours. Once in Fort Lauderdale, we need to provision and get some more 'stuff' for the boat before our departure to the Bahamas once we get a good weather window.






Hint for Cruisers:
1 - St-Augustine: at the city moorings, better to be north of the bridge which is closest to the dinghy dock.  There are several machines in the laundry mat & great showers.
2 - St-Augustine: At the Legend, I think it's on Friday nights, they have lobster for very reasonable prices.
3 - Cocoa Village:  Buy very good Key Lime pies at the Key Lime Pie Factory.
4 - Cocoa Village:  You can bike very easily from Cocoa Village to Cocoa Beach or take the bus.  Along the way you will find every imaginable store.
5 - Biscane Bay, FL:  Great little anchorage before heading out to the Bahamas.  There is NO dinghy access at all.

December 1, 2013

CHARLESTON, South Carolina to SAINT MARY'S, Georgia (Nov.25 - Dec.1, 2013)

After spending several days in Charleston, we left on November 25th and sailed offshore towards the St-Simon's inlet in Georgia. This trip only took us 24 hours however, again, the winds were strong and relentless. More dancing to 70s music.

We arrived at St-Simon's inlet and motored to Jekyll Island. We anchored there and didn't get off the boat. In the morning, we decided to leave at low tide in case we'd run aground and because of the current. We were aground for only about 45 minutes until the tide came up. This was expected. With our center board up, we draw about 4.5 feet so it was pretty shallow in this area.

The very next day we left Jekyll Island towards Saint Mary's Georgia by means of the ICW. We went across St-Andrew's sound against 30 knot winds and it was pretty darn rough....again. I'm certainly getting used to it and our boat handles it extremely well. It fact, sailors do say that most boats handle bad weather better than the crew. That's so true.

We arrived the day before Thanksgiving in Saint Mary's, Georgia where we docked for 4 nights. And what a docking it was. Strong winds made it difficult to get into the dock without hitting the boat but we managed just fine. Being docked meant we had shore power and thus we were able to use our heater. It was quite cold again and finally got some relief from it with our heater. There was no time to waste as the city put on an oyster roast for the cruisers that evening.

TWO DAYS BEFORE THANKSGIVING
At the city hotel, 5 minute walk from our boat, we found 150 sailors swapping stories and getting to know each other over cocktails and oysters. What a feast.




FREE OYSTER FEAST PUT ON BY THE TONW OF ST-MARY'S

I am realizing that most cruisers are older than us by about 10 years. Some have just begun cruising like us others have been on their boat for 15 years and went all over the world. We made numerous friends and hopefully, we'll meet up with some of them in the Bahamas. However, along our route, we constantly see cruisers we've met in other ports. 

NANCY & RICK on s/v ANGEL EYES BECAME GOOD FRIENDS AND BOAT BUDDIES OF OURS

I am speaking French more than ever. There are many cruisers from Québec. Almost everywhere we go, I hear French. Apparently, many go as far as Grenada and leave their boats there for the summer while they earn their stay in Québec to keep their health insurance. I believe they must remain in Canada 180 days a year. From what I've been told, the Government does allow them to remain outside the country for a 2 year period every 5 years or so.

Back to Saint Mary's Thanksgiving bash....There were volunteers willing to drive the cruisers to grocery stores, laundromats, West Marine or any other store we required. We took advantage of this and stocked up on provisions on Thanksgiving day. There was a huge Thanksgiving Pot Luck. Since there were left overs, we were able to bring some home for the next day. All was very delicious. Now, do you wonder how do sailors cook a turkey on board ? They don't or they cook turkey legs. Volunteers from the city cooked turkeys and hams for the pot luck and didn't charge us anything although there were tip boxed. There just isn't enough thank yous for all the locals and volunteers who put on several days of celebrating. It didn't stop at Thanksgiving of course. There were happy hours after that and a pancake breakfast.


On our last day in Saint Mary's, we took a ferry (yeah, we could have motored), to Cumberland Island where JFK Junior got married. It was very windy and cold and slightly rainy. We had all the necessary gear on so we stayed dry and warm. Some people were dressed in fashionable leggins and flip flops. Gads, I'm glad I'm old enough now to know better. We went back to this place the following year and weather was much warmer :)






THE CARNEGIE's HOME
In the early 1880s, Thomas Morrison Carnegie and his wife, Lucy Coleman Carnegie, came to Cumberland Island and established the family's presence, which exists to the present day. They were extremely rich and mostly lived a life of leisure.












The island boasts wild horses and smaller wildlife. The Island now is part of the National Parks service.










Hints for cruisers:
1 - Thanksgiving activities start a week before Thanksgiving so get there early.
2 - Across from the hotel, there's a candy store that has coined laundry. in the back
3 - If you don't want to take your big boat to Cumberland Island, take the ferry