Showing posts with label mayreau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mayreau. Show all posts

December 11, 2015

GRENADINES

There are several Islands that make part of the Grenadines.  The ones we visited were Petit St-Vincent, Petite Martinique, Union, Mayreau, and Tobago Cays.

We were initially going to anchor in Petite Martinique, however, it looked like an extremely uncomfortable anchorage so we went across to Petit St-Vincent instead.  Petit St-Vincent is a private Island owned by a Texan.  On the Island, there’s an exclusive high end resort where guests have their own bungalow.  If they require something, all they have to do is raise a flag outside their bungalow and here comes a butler.  There is no wifi on this island.  We went for a walk on the beach past the “Do not go any further sign” and saw a nicely set up dinner table for 2 on the beach with lanterns.  It was something like out of the Bachelorette TV show.  It looked very romantic indeed.

The next day, we dinghied over to Petite Martinique since we’d never been there before.  It was Sunday so of course, everything was closed but that was ok with us.  We walked the only road until there was no more then continued on a dirt path.  Along the way we many goats and sheep then we heard a young kitten meowing.  We gave it some water for which it drank in it’s entirety.  For a split moment I wanted to adopt it but….I just can’t justify an animal on a boat, not me.



WE DON'T SEE PIGS THAT OFTEN



WE ALSO DON'T SEE BILLY GOATS TOO OFTEN
A little further up we came upon a beautiful meadow with one house that had a most beautiful view.  It was a breathtaking area.  We met a local who was building a garden not far away and he encouraged us to climb to the top of the island.  So, we did.  The view of our boat at Petit St-Vincent made it worthwhile. 




OUR BOAT ANCHORED AT PETIT ST-VINCENT, VIEW FROM PETITE MARTINIQUE



The only unfortunately thing about this island is that its beach is not anything to write home about.  In fact, it’s one of the ugliest beaches I’ve seen.  Well, there really isn’t any tourists that stay on this island other than a day trip like we did. 

THE ONLY MAIN ROAD ON PETITE MARTINIQUE




There are only approximately 200 inhabitants on the little island of Mayreau.  Water here is scares therefore cultivation and livestock pose some difficulty.  Fish is a huge part of the local diet.  Every drop of drinkable water is caught and conserved.  The drum is very popular and present in many celebrations including a type of rhythm just for a ‘rain dance’.  About 20 years ago, there was no electricity on this island.  Mayreau is only  1.5 square miles and has 1 main road. 

For years, this tiny island was owned by one family, the St-Hillaires whose relationship with the inhabitants was feudal.  The workers did not own the land until the 70s when the people were able to change their houses to concrete structures.  Finally, in 1986, the inhabitants were able to purchase their plots. 

Mayreau was settled by Europeans and was then deforested and exploited.  Slave labor was used to cultivate the land for the cash crop of cotton and fuel in the production of lime (a form of cement made from burning the coral of surrounding reefs).  Mayreau was initially claimed by the French who let the island to tenants.  Legend has it that the master was killed by his workers because he was particularly cruel and harsh. 

Today, crime is nonexistent apart from petty theft and there is no police station.   There was a ‘Luxury hotel’ where the cottages are still standing but it is no longer operational.

Ahhhhh, Salt Whistle Bay in Mayreau is a most beautiful, picture postcard island beach.  Since we have a shallow draft we can anchor really close to the beach.  From this vantage point, we can see both the leeward and windward side of the island. 




NOT SUCH A BAD PLACE FOR BOAT JOBS

It’s a little walk over the hill to Saline Bay on Mayreau.  It’s a much bigger bay than Salt Whistle bay and very beautiful also with more full time cruisers versus the bareboat charters in Salt Whistle Bay. 


 
THE CHURCH UP ON THE HILL HAS A DRUM




DOGS LIKE TO DIG FOR SAND CRABS


The Tobago Cays are made up of 4 little islands called Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Baradal and Sandy.  There is a turtle sanctuary where you can snorkel with the turtles however they do ask you to ‘give them space’.  Beyond the islands is Horseshoe Reef where the snorkeling is fantastic.  There can be a strong current so beware.  I spotted a ray and watched it swim, what luck !























May 21, 2015

GRENADINES (BEQUIA, MAYREAU, TOBAGO CAYS, PETITE SAINT VINCENT, UNION ISLAND, CARRIACOU)

Our sail from the Pitons at St-Lucia to Bequia was not so unusual in the fact that between islands, because of the strong easterlies, we often had gusts reaching over 30 knots.  No worries, by now, we were used to it. 


ELIZABETH HARBOUR, BEQUIA:  I truly love this little town.  It has everything one would need.  Restaurants, entertainment, bars, free wifi, fresh market, hiking, ect ect....We stayed here relaxing for about 9 days waiting for our friends Sephora & Brian to arrive from Colorado.

VIEW OF ELIZABETH HARBOR

This is one of the most beautiful fish I've seen while snorkeling, the Flying Gurnard.  The pelvic fins act lie legs as the fish walks along the bottom of the ocean.  They also grunt.  The French term for the word Gurnard means to grunt.  When threatened, they expand their colorful wings.

FLYING GURNARD

We walked from the town of Bequia to the Sea turtle Sanctuary.  It's a few miles but well worth walking because you see many beautiful areas along the way.



SARGASSUM SEAWEED
There is currently an invasion of sargassum seaweed in the Caribbean.  It has affected tourism in certain areas.  A massive tide of sargassum, brown invasive algae is being washed on to the shores of several islands.  Although seaweed is normally seen as a nuisance, it does offer some ecological benefits.  Sargassum is only temporary but it's fairly unpredictable.  It's annoying for us when we try and fish as we catch seaweed rather than fish !









Be aware when pulling mangos off of trees. The sap will burn your skin !  I got burn marks all around my eyes and cheeks.  Good thing I didn't get the sap in my eye !  I now have a permanent mark.  As the days went on, the burn marks looked worse than in the photo.





DELICIOUS WAX APPLES

SALT WHISTLE BAY, MAYREAU:  You cannot, I repeat, cannot miss this bay.  It is truly picture postcard.  When we first got here, it was really busy with charter catamarans, but the next morning when we got up, we were totally alone !





VIEW OF TOBAGO CAYS FROM THE CHURCH




SALINE BAY, AN EASY WALK OVER THE HILL FROM SALT WHISTLE BAY



BOUGHT RED SNAPPER AT SALINE BAY






SUNRISE


SALT WHISTLE BAY

TOBAGO CAYS:  Tobago Cays is a National Park.  We swam several times from the boat to the turtle sanctuary.  We saw several turtles, 8 in one day !  We also tied our dinghy to a dingy buoy near the reefs but unfortunately, the current was so strong, it was difficult to snorkel.  I'm just happy I've been here before while it was calm !  The wind was blowing really hard :(







































PETIT VINCENT:  This is a private island.  You cannot just walk around but you can go to the resort bar & restaurant on the beach.  You can go to the beach but only to a very limited area.  It's a nice area though.  We all took turns kayaking around the other side of the beach. 

Sephora and I decided to swim from the beach back to the boat.  Near the boat, the current was extremely strong.  We swam like crazy just to try to make it to the boat.  We did, ouf ! 

Sailing friends of ours told us that this Island was prettier than Palm Island, another private island close to Petit Vincent.








MOPION: We motored about 15 minutes from Petit Vincent to Mopion sand spit.  It's well worth a stop.




MOPION

CHATHAM BAY & CLIFTON, UNION ISLAND:  We cleared in Clifton and provisioned.  There's a nice market in Clifton and Sephora and I had lots of fun filling up our bags.  There's also a gourmet store called Captain's gourmet where we bought freshly made yogurt and fresh baguettes.  Two men were walking down the street with a large cooler.  I asked them if they had fish for sale.  They did, bonus !  more red snapper.

I really enjoyed anchoring at Chatham Bay.  We anchored near the cliff on the north side to be out of the wind.  There is great snorkeling here with a very nice beach.  I would stay here rather than in Clifton.








TYRELL BAY, CARRIACOU:  It's fun to dinghy by the mangroves.  Once in the area though, it is advisable to shut off your motor for conservational purposes. 









TOUGH DAY ON THE JOB




When sailing from Carriacou to Grenada, you sail pass Kick'em Jenny.  Kick'em Jenny is an active submarine volcano or seamount on the Caribbean Sea floor, located 8 km north of the island of Grenada and about 8 km west of Ronde Island in the Grenadines.  Kick-'em Jenny rises 4,265 feet above the sea floor on the steep inner western slope of the Lesser Antilles ridge.  The South American tectonic plate is subducting the Caribbean tectonic plate to the east of this ridge and under the Lesser Antilles Island.  It is advisable to sail around this area.  No kidding !










Information for cruisers:
1. Elizabeth Harbour, Bequia:   Laundry:  I did mine on the first level of Maria's café for 12EC a wash and 12EC a dry if you do it yourself.  You can wait in the laundry area or upstairs at the café.  Their wifi is excellent.  Other cruisers told me Sparkles has better laundry, I don't know why.
2. Elizabeth Harbour, Bequia:  Ferries cause lots of wake, anchor away from them.
3. Bequia:  Cruiser's net:  Mon-Sat, 8am, VHF 68.
4. Bequia:  Good snorkeling off of Princess Margaret beach near the rocks. 
5. LIME SIM cards DO NOT support personal hotspot.