GRENADINES

There are several Islands that make part of the Grenadines.  The ones we visited were Petit St-Vincent, Petite Martinique, Union, Mayreau, and Tobago Cays.

We were initially going to anchor in Petite Martinique, however, it looked like an extremely uncomfortable anchorage so we went across to Petit St-Vincent instead.  Petit St-Vincent is a private Island owned by a Texan.  On the Island, there’s an exclusive high end resort where guests have their own bungalow.  If they require something, all they have to do is raise a flag outside their bungalow and here comes a butler.  There is no wifi on this island.  We went for a walk on the beach past the “Do not go any further sign” and saw a nicely set up dinner table for 2 on the beach with lanterns.  It was something like out of the Bachelorette TV show.  It looked very romantic indeed.

The next day, we dinghied over to Petite Martinique since we’d never been there before.  It was Sunday so of course, everything was closed but that was ok with us.  We walked the only road until there was no more then continued on a dirt path.  Along the way we many goats and sheep then we heard a young kitten meowing.  We gave it some water for which it drank in it’s entirety.  For a split moment I wanted to adopt it but….I just can’t justify an animal on a boat, not me.

WE DON'T SEE PIGS THAT OFTEN

WE ALSO DON'T SEE BILLY GOATS TOO OFTEN

A little further up we came upon a beautiful meadow with one house that had a most beautiful view.  It was a breathtaking area.  We met a local who was building a garden not far away and he encouraged us to climb to the top of the island.  So, we did.  The view of our boat at Petit St-Vincent made it worthwhile. 

OUR BOAT ANCHORED AT PETIT ST-VINCENT, VIEW FROM PETITE MARTINIQUE

The only unfortunately thing about this island is that its beach is not anything to write home about.  In fact, it’s one of the ugliest beaches I’ve seen.  Well, there really isn’t any tourists that stay on this island other than a day trip like we did. 

THE ONLY MAIN ROAD ON PETITE MARTINIQUE

There are only approximately 200 inhabitants on the little island of Mayreau.  Water here is scares therefore cultivation and livestock pose some difficulty.  Fish is a huge part of the local diet.  Every drop of drinkable water is caught and conserved.  The drum is very popular and present in many celebrations including a type of rhythm just for a ‘rain dance’.  About 20 years ago, there was no electricity on this island.  Mayreau is only  1.5 square miles and has 1 main road.  For years, this tiny island was owned by one family, the St-Hillaires whose relationship with the inhabitants was feudal.  The workers did not own the land until the 70s when the people were able to change their houses to concrete structures.  Finally, in 1986, the inhabitants were able to purchase their plots.  Mayreau was settled by Europeans and was then deforested and exploited.  Slave labor was used to cultivate the land for the cash crop of cotton and fuel in the production of lime (a form of cement made from burning the coral of surrounding reefs).  Mayreau was initially claimed by the French who let the island to tenants.  Legend has it that the master was killed by his workers because he was particularly cruel and harsh.  Today, crime is nonexistent apart from petty theft and there is no police station.   There was a ‘Luxury hotel’ where the cottages are still standing but it is no longer operational. Ahhhhh, Salt Whistle Bay in Mayreau is a most beautiful, picture postcard island beach.  Since we have a shallow draft we can anchor really close to the beach.  From this vantage point, we can see both the leeward and windward side of the island.  NOT SUCH A BAD PLACE FOR BOAT JOBS It’s a little walk over the hill to Saline Bay on Mayreau.  It’s a much bigger bay than Salt Whistle bay and very beautiful also with more full time cruisers versus the bareboat charters in Salt Whistle Bay.    THE CHURCH UP ON THE HILL HAS A DRUM DOGS LIKE TO DIG FOR SAND CRABS The Tobago Cays are made up of 4 little islands called Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Baradal and Sandy.  There is a turtle sanctuary where you can snorkel with the turtles however they do ask you to ‘give them space’.  Beyond the islands is Horseshoe Reef where the snorkeling is fantastic.  There can be a strong current so beware.  I spotted a ray and watched it swim, what luck !

ST-VINCENT

Our sail from Bequia to St-Vincent was a wet one.  The waves were 6 to 8 feet), the winds were  at 25 knots and we were going against the trade winds and current.  We hugged the shores as much as we could, but still, waves pounded into our cockpit soaking us.  This was actually the best day to sail as the forecast was only going to get worse.  Of course, we could of stayed longer however, we're on a SCHEDULE to get to St-Anne, Martinique for Xmas.  I must of said a million of times and cruisers all know that schedules are an awful thing but still, we make them for one reason or another.  

Our goal was to hike the volcano in St-Vincent however my herniated discs were not happy, giving me lots of grief.  So, instead, we waiting 30 minutes for a local bus to pick us up to go to the town of Kingstown.  This bus driver had it figured out.  He was by far, the worse, fastest crazy bus driver with the loudest vulgar rap music to date but....the inside roof of his bus was very well padded so we guessed  that if we flipped over, we'd be protected by this pad.  A lovely thought.

PADDED BUS IN CASE OF CRASH

Kingstown is a very lively, dreary, falling apart kind of Carib city by the ocean with lots of container ships and a cruise dock. The streets are lined with fruit, vegetable vendors and cheap clothing stores.  I just had to buy a watermelon and eat it right then and there.

Some vendors set up a couple of stools and a make shift table so you can have cocktails in the middle of the work day.  The town is loud; people screaming at each other for unknown reasons since we cannot understand Creole.  There was also a demonstration opposing the newly elected government.  I made the mistake of asking a lady what the demonstration was about.  She was extremely lively and yelling  and screaming about how their new government was a communist and she just went on and on and on....She was so loud it was hurting my ears.  I had to back away.  

DOWNTOWN KINGSTON

DOWNTOWN KINGSTON

MURAL IN DOWNTOWN KINGSTON

DOWNTOWN MARKET

We walked up the hill to visit the Botanical Gardens.  These gardens are the oldest in all of the Western Hemisphere.  We had to stop under a gazebo and have our lunch since it was raining very hard.  The garden keepers kept us company and were very proud to say that they had their first Xmas light show the previous night.  

The garden boasts a breadfruit tree that is a descendant of the original breadfruit tree imported here by Captain Bligh.

There is an organization that is trying to save the St-Vincent parrots as there are only about 500 left in the wild and only on the Island of St-Vincent.  Next to the gardens are several cages with about 20 St-Vincent parrots.  We were greeted by them saying "Hello, hello, hello".  They are very colorful birds of bright grey, red, pink, orange, blue, white and green colors.  It started raining really hard again and the birds walked upside down clinging to the roof of their cages and spreading their wings to get a bath.  This went on for about 30-60 minutes.  It was quite comical watching them.

ST-VINCENT PARROT

On our way back to the city, we decided to walk thru the very large cemetery.  As soon as we stepped inside the gates, a man which looked like he was living there, proceeded to get naked.  Not sure if he saw us or not...we turned back.

NAKED MAN TAKING COVER

HINTS FOR CRUISERS:

• Blue Lagoon marina:  Can be a bit rolly.  If you take a mooring ball, you can use their pool for $10 US a day.  The marina has a small cafe and a bar.  It also has a small grocery store.  You can catch a local bus just outside the marina by walking up the steep driveway.  It is only about 15 minute bus ride to the airport and another 15 to Kingstown.  Traffic can be horrible going into and out of the city.
• Botanical Garden:  We were here in December and there really wasn't many flowers at all.  The far better botanical gardens are in Deshaies, Guadeloupe.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

BEQUIA

You can tell that Christmas is just around the corner.  Xmas lights  are being set up in trees all around town.  Unfortunately, they won't be lighting them for another few days.

One night, we had beers at Papa's restaurant and bar, owned by a Swedish guy who's really into hockey.  Turns out that the Montreal Canadiens were playing against the Ottawa Senators in Montreal that night !   Next to me, was sitting Yalmar, a Swedish sailor on s/v Flying Penguin.  Turns out we saw his boat a couple of years ago near Musha Cay in the Bahamas with our friends on s/v Harmonium Cays.  Small world indeed.  Yalmar owns a condo in the Lagoon in St-Martin.  He invited us for cocktails.  When we get there, we'll surely take him up on it.  

While watching the hockey game, two local guys were playing guitar none stop for 3+ hours.  I find it's a real treat when you don't expect free live local entertainment.  A 3rd guy came along and was playing the yukilaly then suddenly left.  On the way back to our boat, at the dinghy dock, a guy next to a white van with a red light blinking on top asked us if we were at Papa's. We said "Yes".  He said, "I'm the guy who was playing the lukilaly and sorry I had to leave so fast".  Turns out he's the ambulance driver and there was a stabbing he had to attend to.  We asked if there was a hospital on the island.  He said no, but that the coast guard was arriving to pick up the guy and bring him to Kingstown in St-Vincent.  I asked, where's the guy now ?  He said, in the ambulance behind you.  As we were leaving, the coast guard arrived.  I'm just glad the guy in the ambulance didn't come out after us !  Ahhhh, just another night in the Caribbean Islands I guess.

We had a nice walk towards Peggy's Rock and visited a most beautiful resort called Bequia Beach Hotel.  My favorite would be a beach side cottage for only $500 US a night.  I have very good taste indeed.

You may want to look at my blog for Bequia dated May 2015 for more details.

POMEGRANITES

HINTS FOR CRUISERS:

• Maria's cafe has a laundry mat on the side of the cafe at street level.  You can do your own laundry here and get free wifi (from the cafe).  Cost me $48EC for 2 washes and 2 dryers.  Laundry in the Carib is expensive but cheaper if you do it yourself.  Beware, many places say they have laundry but it's laundry services where you cannot do laundry yourself.
• Papa's restaurant/bar is one of my favorites.  They have a nice view of the harbor.  Try their sour sop ice cream.
• The fruit and vegetables the vendors sell come mostly from St-Vincent.  Best to go the day they arrive from St-Vincent, otherwise they get ripe really fast.
• Must go to Dorris's gourmet grocery store.  There you will find things you wouldn't find anywhere else but be warned, it's pricey.  They have fresh mint for your mojitos :).  You'll find frozen meat and fish in the big freezers.
• If you want to buy a batik, there's a beautiful batik shop in town.  Expect to pay $49 US +++.     

CARRIACOU

Carriacou is a small, quaint island with very friendly locals.  We anchored in the protected Tyrell Bay where you can find some restaurants, bars and small grocery store.  Here, the music can be quite loud on certain nights. 

We met a guy who lives on a derelict sailboat with no mast.  His ankle was all taped up.  I asked him "What happened to your ankle?".  He responded “A dog bit my foot and then I kicked it, breaking my foot”.  He must of kicked that dog really hard !

There is no water on the island.  The only way to get water is to collect the rain water.  There are approximately 5,000 inhabitants on the island.

We took the local #10 bus for $3EC to Hillsborough, the main town.  There you can find some grocery stores, vendors for fresh veggies and fruit, a fish market, post office and several restaurant/bars.  We particularly enjoyed ‘La Playa’ restaurant.  For $30EC we were served a large portion of Mahi Mahi burger with fries or salad.  It was absolutely delicious.    

LOCAL CHILDREN TAKE THE LOCAL BUSES

NO IDEA WHAT THIS CRITTER IS

FISHERMAN ARRIVING WITH THEIR CATCH IN HILLSBOROUGH

A visit to the  town of Windward was well worth it.  Take the #11 bus from the bus depot in Hillsborough.  Anthony McLaurence is currently building a wood cargo/sailing ship that’s about 75 feet long and 18 feet wide.  The wood he’s using is white pine, mahogany and cedar.  Some of the wood is local and some are imported from Grenada and other islands in the area.   Mr. McLaurence said he’ll launch approximately in July 2016.  I wish we could be there for the festivities where they’ll roasting pigs and goats.  It’ll take about 300 people to launch the boat.  It’ll be an all day ordeal.

Sitting by the ocean having beers before lunch was Lynn and Kevin we met from Lake Manitoulin, Ontario.  They bought a house down the road 4 years ago and make Carriacou their home 6 months out of the year.  They were kind enough to invite us to their home where they showed us their land turtles.  During December, they mate and make so much noise that it’s their entertainment as they don’t have a television.  Turtle Porn they call it.  It’s unfortunate in the fact that they no longer grow vegetables in their gardens because they kept getting their produce stolen.  In fact, one night around 2am, they saw someone carrying a goat on their back….They figured that the person was stealing this goat.  Sad.

SUSAN, LYNN AND KEVIN ON THEIR PROPERTY IN CARRIACOU

YOU CAN TELL IT'S A MALE BECAUSE OF HIS SHELL IS INDENTED TO BE ABLE TO MOUNT A FEMALE

In July 1945, children found an anti ship mine that was washed ashore.  It unfortunately exploded and several people perished.  A monument was erected at the site.

About a 25 minute walk from Windward to Bay A L’eau, along the seashore you’ll find a cemetery called T-Bone.  Locals are buried here next to the ocean in hopes that one day they’ll be washed out to sea.  Then, why don’t they just get dumped into the sea when they die?  It’s a creepy place.

We walked the beautiful Paradise Beach in L’esterre.  It’s a wonderful beach with clear water and some restaurants & bars along the way.  It’s very low key and well worth spending some beach time there.  It’s here you will find a brightly colored container which is the Fidel Productions store that has lots of local made crafts and batiks.  It’s a bit on the pricey side but everything is very well made.  Across from Paradise Beach is Sandy Island.

PARADISE BEACH IN L'ESTERRE

PARADISE BEACH AND SANDY ISLAND IN THE BACKGROUND

Sandy Island is basically a sand bar across from Paradise Beach in L’esterre, Carriacou.  It is a protected sea park and there is a small fee to take a mooring buoy here.  Previous storms washed up coral on the windward side protecting this little island.  If you look closely, some places have pink sand which is pink coral that has been broken and washed up on the beach.  The water is amazingly clear, probably because of the strong currents.  Snorkeling is best on the East end. 

CORAL WASHED UP ON THE WINDWARD SIDE OF SAND ISLAND

STAR FRUIT FOR BREAKFAST.  I LIKE IT A BIT UNDERIPE AS IT'S CRUNCHY LIKE APPLE

After a beautiful night at Sandy Island, we motored to Hillsborough, Carriacou to clear out and get some fresh fish from the market.  This time, we bought some Lion fish and Red Snapper.  Both costs $20EC, that’s about $7US.  It was our first time eating Lion fish and it is truly delicious.

HINTS FOR CRUISERS:

- You need European 220 volts, 50 Hertz electric.

-        - Post office is in Hillsborough however you can mail letters and post cards at Alexi’s supermarket in Tyrell Bay.

- - There's a good Deli in Hillsborough called Patty's Deli.

-     - Take #10 bus from Tyrell Bay to Paradise Beach or Hillsborough.

-         - Take #11 bus from the Hillsborough bus depot to Windward.

-         - There can be loud music at night on the shores of Tyrell Bay.

-         - You can clear in and out both in Tyrell Bay and Hillsborough.  Immigration and customs is opened on week-ends in Hillsborough.  Once you clear out, you have 24 hours to leave.

-         - You can easily bike this Island.

-      -  Groceries and produce are limited.