GRAND CAYMAN ISLAND

Sailing from Guanaja, one of the three Bay Islands in Honduras to the Grand Cayman Island was probably not going to happen.  First off, it's East, which means bashing against wind, waves and current.  While we waited for that special weather window, we had already Plan B, Plan C and Plan D.  Plan B was to stay in Guanaja until the next weather window. Plan C was to go to Cuba and Plan D was simply to go North West to Mexico.  I learned a long time ago not to hope too hard and just accept the weather.
As we were enjoying Guanaja, we found time to stare at the computer several hours at the little wind indicators on Windfinder's web site to see if anything at all was looking possible for us to leave.  

Our chance came sooner than later but we were prepared.  Guanaja to the Grand Cayman Island is 328 nautical miles.  The Grid files we downloaded predicted South Easterly winds at 15 knots for 30 hours, and then it predicted no wind for 18 hours and finally light winds out of the East.  As we left Guanaja on February 15th, we bashed against large waves for about 3 miles getting out of the anchorage and around some reefs.  As soon as we turned to port heading North East, we sailed on a close reach for 80 miles in 12 hours. For Alpenglow, this was a record distance for a 12 hour sail.  It was rough and waves constantly crashed over the bow, we could hardly walk down below but heck it was fast and exciting!  We knew the winds were going to die so we headed as far East as we could.  

The winds did lighten up and the waves died down so it was a pleasant sail until the winds completely died so we put away our sails and motored for 22 long hours still heading East as much as we could.  Now that was easy easting I would say.  
Gladly, the wind did pick up just enough for us to sail the final 60 miles on a heading of 30 degrees to Grand Cayman Island.   I forgot to mention, we got no rain and no squalls during the whole passage.  Tim is great at picking good weather windows, with no help from Chris Parker I should add (mind you, I do think Chris is great, we just don’t use him).

We got so much salt water over our deck, when we arrived in the Caymans, the railing looked as if it had little specks of snow, like that little snow we often get back home that falls too soon in the season.  Oh boy, it's only supposed to rain in 5 days from now.  

As we approached the island, we can plainly see that we are no longer in Central America. Welcome to the 1st world indeed.  Although, there are still signs that we are in the wild tropics; iguanas, palm trees, exotic fruit trees and chickens walking around.  Here, every bathroom has toilet paper, automatic running water and wow, paper towels !  The hot water tap even works.  I’ve been in Central America a long time. 

I had mixed feelings about whether we would enjoy the Caymans or not with all the cruise ships (up to 6 a day) and expensive cruise ship like stores, mega million dollar homes and over priced restaurants and produce.  It will be interesting to see.  We are not obliged to see or experience these uncharacteristic Caribbean features.  We chose the Caymans simply because we can and it's an easy sail to other nearby countries.  

Being a flat island, it’s a perfect place to go exploring on our folding bikes in search of true islanders away from tourists, eat delicious BBQs off the street, locate beaches free of lounge chairs and chat with some locals.  Also, it's been over a month now since I went swimming because of the moray eel that attacked me, so I thought, the Caymans would be a great place to get back to the underwater world snorkeling and diving.  

Many years ago, fishermen gutted their catch and threw scraps overboard.  Over time, the stingrays came to get a free snack.  The area is now known as 'Stingray City', a very touristy spot.  Here's the mouth of a Stingray.

STAR FISH AT STARFISH POINT

DOG HEAD REEF

One of our bike rides started at Rum Point along the seashore to the most Eastern End of the island.  East End is a very small community with beautiful ocean views.  Along the way, we stopped at Duppy turn to see if we couldn’t see any ‘Dupples’.  ‘Dupples’ are ghosts reportedly seen by many North Siders before the advent of electric lights, streets, automobiles and other symbols of modernity.  Dupples were not always friendly and generally terrified those who saw them.  We didn’t see any at all, then again, it was daylight.

I enjoy cemeteries which may be a bit weird.  I think of all the people who once lived interesting lives and one day, it’ll be me.  Maybe one day, someone will look at my tombstone and wonder about me.

A Mom died only 1 month after her 14 year old daughter passed away.  I imagine she died of a broken heart

As we continued our hot, humid bike ride, we came upon Davinoff’s concrete sculptures that were laid out in front of his house.  Here are only some of the sculptures.

 

BLOW HOLE

Coming to the end of our day’s bike ride, I was hot and getting tired of being on the bike.  A cool shower was on my mind but then, all of a sudden, we could hear the loud cries of Cayman parrots.  We stopped and the couple staring at us, letting me take wonderful pictures of them.

CAYMAN ISLANDS' PARROT "AMEZONA LEUCOCEPHALA", RACE:  A.I. CAYMANENSIS

I visited Cathy Church’s underwater photography studio.  She has many beautiful photographs for sale and also gives underwater photography lessons.  As I was looking through her photo album, I saw a picture of her forehead pressed against a green moray eel.  What the f8*&^%%$.  I had the chance to chat with her after her class.  I asked her about the picture and she simply said “that particular moray eel was tame”.  I wondered how in the heck do you know when one is tame ?????? OK, maybe I’m freaking out about eels but it’s been over 2 months since my injury and my hand still hurts ! Check out her web site on www.cathychurch.com

We stayed at the Camana Bay marina for a couple of days.  At $25 a night, you can’t beat that !  Some city planners would love this area.  It’s a unique mix of condos, offices, retail, restaurants, bars and services.

 

CONDOS & RESTAURANTS AT CAMANA BAY

From the marina we biked north to West Bay.  Along the way we saw the big hotels on seven mile beach, passed the Dolphin Center and Turtle research center.   We also passed a little store that sold turtle meat.  

BIKING IS FUN IN THE SUN

MORE EVIDENCE THAT SPRING IS IN THE AIR !

LAWRENCE OF ARABIA

EAST END

We did a bit of a detour to go to the little town of Hell.  Yup, Hell.  You can actually send a postcard from Hell.  We first saw a big gift shop with a big sign saying “Welcome to Hell”.  Outside of the gift shop is large balcony overlooking a large area with black coral and a Devil carved from the coral.  This is Hell, apparently.

A SCULPTURE OF THE DEVIL ON TOP OF LIMESTONE

Yet another bike ride brought us to visit The Queen Elizabeth II Botanical & Blue Iguana farm.  I was pretty impressed with the gardens with strikingly beautiful exotic flowers and over 100 species of palm trees.  From what I remember, it’s about 16 acres and has a nice trail.  There’s also a fruit tree exhibit and my favorite an orchid exhibit.  Unfortunately for me, not one orchid was blooming at the time.  However everything else was impressive.  What was not impressive was the extra cost for a guided tour to visit the blue iguanas.  There are little windows we peeped thru and saw one of the blue iguanas.

CASHEWS

LUNCH SPOT OVERLOOKING THE LILY PADS

THIS LITTLE GUY HAD THE STRANGEST BEHAVIOR

We anchored off North Sound estates and biked to the local towns of Savannah and Bodden.  We visited the very small Governor Gore bird sanctuary, walked on the beach and had delicious ice cream.  Here, I found a tree full of orange, reddish fruit.  I picked one and brought it home to taste it later.  I first googled Ackee, and thank goodness I did !  The Ackee fruit considered to be one of the 10 most dangerous foods.  If improperly eaten, Ackee can cause what has been dubbed the Jamaican Vomiting Sickness.  Other than self-explanatory symptoms, can lead to come or death. After having shoulder surgery, being attacked by an eel, all I would need now is go into a coma !!!!

ACKEE FRUIT

AT THE GOVERNOR GORE BIRD SANCTUARY

Seven Mile beach isn’t truly 7 miles but actually about 5.5 miles.  Several times, Tim and I walked the beach and then some.   We got strong calves walking up to 8 miles on some days !  It is truly a beautiful beach.  A happening place was Calyco’s bar and restaurant which we liked to hang out, especially on Sundays when the local young crowd would come and play volleyball or just hang out.

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CRUISERS & TRAVELERS INFORMATION ON GRAND CAYMAN ISLAND

CHECKING IN:

The documents say to call the Port Captain (VHF 16) when you are 10 miles out.  He will direct you as to where to go (dock or take an orange buoy).  The coordinates for the anchorage is 19 17.955N, 081 23.055 W.  If you check in/out on a Sunday you will have to pay overtime charges.

OUR EXPERIENCE:  We called the Port Captain between 4 and 5 pm on a Friday.  The Port Captain office was closed but someone did talk with us.   She advised us to take one of their orange buoys and if they were all taken, to take a white one.  Since the office is closed, she told us to stay on board for the night and check in at 8:30 the following morning, a Saturday.  

On Saturday, they advised us to dock our boat at their South Dock by the immigration office.  If you are lucky and the dock is busy, they’ll come to you.  The dock is made of concrete and there was a surge, also, there are not many places to tie the boat.  Make sure you have long lines and you could tie across the path to the fence.  Make sure you also have numerous fenders.  They gave us 30 days.  There was NO fee.  Nobody came on board at all, no mosquito control spraying, no taking of our fruits and vegetables.  However, they did confiscate our spear and sling and gave us a receipt for them.  

EXTENSION:  It is possible to extent your stay another 30 days for $50 or 60 days for $100 by submitting a letter requesting an extension and visiting the Port Captain and immigration.  Or, you can go to Cayman Brac for another 30 day free extension.

GOING TO LITTLE CAYMAN OR CAYMAN BRAC:  You must check out of Grand Cayman first then check into Cayman Brac (there are no officials in Little Cayman).

CHECKING OUT:

After you check out, make sure you get your duty free papers.  Go to the duty free stores and stock up.  They will deliver your goods near your boat. Also, get some duty free fuel at either Barcadere marina or at Grand Cayman Yacht Club.

Customs will deliver your spear guns to you, near your boat. 

Note:  Immigration did not take our visa cards.  When we got to Cayman Brac, immigration said that Grand Cayman should have taken our cards.  No big deal, Cayman Brac immigration officer made a call then  took our old cards and had us fill in new cards and bonus, gave us another 30 free days !!!!  More on this in my Cayman Brac blog.

BUOYs:

Cruisers are encouraged to use free buoys rather than anchor.  There are approximately 6 or 7 orange buoys in George Town.  All along the reef are dive buoys cruisers can use as a day use.  You can anchor by the 2 Stingray city sites.

PUBLIC BUSES:

The buses run every day of the week, however there may be fewer buses on Sundays.  There are bus stops however you can wave one down anywhere.  It costs about $2.00CI for a ride.  You can get just about anywhere on the buses.  The hub is in George Town one street up from the Fort.  You can find the bus routes on the local maps and in the Explore booklet.

ATM:

George Town:  You can get CI or US dollars at the ATM at the Royal Bank behind the museum by the cruise ship docks.

Many places:  I wouldn’t worry too much about ATMs, there are several in many places (Savannah, Bodden, George Town, grocery stores, ect…), however they don’t all disperse US dollars.

GROCERIES:

George Town:  From the cruise ship dock, go north, pass the Burger King, the grocery store “Kirk’s” is on your right.  OR, park your dinghy on the dock next to the Lobster restaurant/bar near the Burger King and walk north.  It's a 5 minute walk.

Governor’s Harbour / Mitchell’s Creek:  You can tie your dinghy at the end of Mitchell’s Creek by some condos.  Walk across the street and slightly to the right you’ll see Governor’s square with a Costco type store called “Cost U Less”.  You do not need a membership.   There’s also a liquor store, pharmacy, tourist office and more at Governor’s Square mall.

Grand Harbor Estates near the airport:  Tie your dinghy up at the end of the canal, there’s a public dock there.  Onshore you’ll see a skate park and there’s a small building right in front of you.  The large grocery store is behind this building.  2 minute walk.   This is the most convenient place to go shopping that we found.

North Sound Estates:  There’s a little shopping mall and grocery store in Savannah however it’s about an hour’s walk to the dinghy dock.

FISH MARKET:

In George Town by the water front, you’ll find fresh fish.  Red Snapper cost $6.25CI a pound, at the store it was $5.99CI a pound.

DINGHY DOCKs

All docks we used were free.

George Town:  Use the dock next to the Lobster restaurant/bar near the Burger King North of the cruise ship docks.

Rum Point:  There’s a great dinghy dock right at the point.

Kaibo:  Use the town dinghy dock to the right of the condos at the park.

Camana Bay:  Use the town dinghy dock.  You cannot stay overnight.

Mitchell’s Creek:  Tie up at the end of the creek near the condos.  They have cleats.

North Sound Estates:  Use the town dinghy dock.  It’s a good hour’s walk, if not more to Savannah.  Easy bike ride to Savannah and Bodden.

Grand Harbor Estates:  Dinghy down the canal.

BIKING:

It’s a great island to bike since it’s quite flat and car drivers are courteous.  There are some roads with hardly any traffic and other roads that are narrow and dangerous.  There are several places you can rent bikes.

East End:  Start from Rum Point and head East.  You can do an easy, mostly hassle free traffic, 30 mile loop.  Take Rum point Dr, changes into North Side Road, changes into Old Robin Road, then take Queens highway all around the East point and then take Frank Sound rd across the island and turn left on North Side road again back to Rum Point.  There are a couple of restaurants along the way, a blow hole, Botanical garden & Iguana farm and lots of great views.  We just loved this ride.

West End:  For a shorter bike ride, you can start at the Turtle Farm or for a longer ride, bike along the 7 mile beach to the Turtle Farm.   Head North East from the Turtle Farm.  You can do a loop.  You’ll come to a dirt road by Barker’s National Park which is fine for riding.   On the way back, you can stop in the little town of Hell, just for the hell of it ! 

South Side (Savannah & Bodden towns):  I don’t recommend biking on this road as it is narrow and has lots of traffic and big trucks.

7 Mile Beach:  It’s a busy road but is quite wide.  In some areas it has good shoulders and a bike lane.  I had no problem biking on this road.

KITE BOARDING:

A very popular kite boarding area is called Barkers which is at the North West end.  Buses do not go there.  It’s a dirt road as you near Barkers which you can ride a bike or take your car.  It is not necessary to have a 4 wheel drive car.

RUM POINT, North Sound:

Anchor off of Rum Point in 6.5 feet of water.  There’s a great dock to park your dinghy.  Beach Bar & Restaurant.  Good place to bike and do a loop to East End.

On a moonless night, dinghy into the first inlet past Rum Point to the south and see some bioluminescence.  Or better still, kayak there as many people do.

STINGRAY CITY SANDBAR, North Sound:

Best to go when there are minimal or no cruise ships in port.  You can anchor really close and anchor your dinghy on the sand bar where the rays are.  Masks & snorkel are allowed but no fins.  Free of charge for cruisers.  This is not the same place as Stingray City.

STINGRAY CITY, North Sound:

Beware of lots of coral getting in there.  Depth is about 15 feet.  Good for diving with the stingrays.  You can also snorkel and see very well.  You can anchor your big boat and/or dinghy. 

WATER POINT, North Sound:

This is where Kaibo Yacht club resides.  It is a calmer anchorage than at Rum Point.  It’s a nice walk from Kaibo to Star Point and Rum Point.  If you have a decent HP motor, you can dinghy easily to Rum Point and beyond to great snorkeling areas.

SUNDAYS:

Many locals spend their Sundays just hanging out at Rum Point and at Calyco Jack’s bar & restaurant on 7 mile beach.  They BBQ, float in the water with beers in their hands or play volleyball at Calyco’s.  Just beside Calyco’s off the volleyball nets, is a guy that BBQs Chicken and Pork for $10CI a plate. 

BEACH HANGOUT:

Calyco Jack’s at 7 mile beach.  This bar/restaurant also has live music, full moon parties, volleyball and more.  It can get quite busy as cruise ship tourists hang out here.

FERRY:

There’s a ferry that goes from Camana Bay to Rum Point and/or Kaibo.

THINGS TO DO:

Pick up maps and the ‘Explore Cayman’ booklet at the tourist office at Governor’s Square.

Governor Michael Gore Bird Sanctuary:  Free. It has a pond and a couple of benches with shade.  It’s an extremely small area.

Laundry:  Full & Fold.  They have several locations.  $1.25CI a pound or over $2.00CI a pound for same day service.

Cathy Church Photography Studio:

Turtle Farm:  We did not go.  Across from the turtle farm you may purchase turtle meat.

Swim with the Dolphins:  You can view a 10 minute free show on Sundays at 12:30.  You can go earlier and just hang out and watch the trainers feed and train the dolphins.

Caybrew:  Cayman beer brewery.  Pretty good deal, it’s about $10ci for 5, 6 ounces of beer plus a tour.

Distillery: We did not go.

Queen Elizabeth II Botanical Garden and Blue Iguanas:  The gardens are magnificent.  They have many orchids but do call ahead of time if you want to know if they are in bloom or not.  Bring good walking shoes.  Bring a picnic lunch and eat at the gazebo by the lily pads.  It costs extra to visit the blue iguanas however there are small windows you can see them if you are lucky.

George Town:  Museum, lots of cruise ship type shops.  A fort that only has a couple of canons.  Bus terminal.  Bar/Restaurants.  Dive shops.  You can snorkel from some restaurants.

Snorkeling & Scuba Diving:  There are numerous dive shops and dive sites along with several snorkeling sites.  You can grab a free mooring ball to do your own diving and snorkeling.

Fishing:  There are several fishing boats. 

Water sports galore:  7 mile beach and Rum point rent water sports gear.